Q & A #52 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #52 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for today’s segment of the Auto Specialist. Earlier, I read that Toyota is making plans to double the global output of hybrid vehicles to over 1 million by 2011. Toyota and Honda continue to battle for the frontrunner position on low-emissions cars. To say the least, it will be interesting to see how this battle plays out. Plus, given the components that are installed in today’s vehicles to lower emissions (i.e. catalytic converters, oxygen sensors, etc.), it will be interesting to see how those evolve.

In the last segment, we helped three readers with their car problems. Tom was having an issue with his alternator; Brian was dealing with a coolant leak into his engine’s cylinders; and Dawn was coping with the bad news following her car’s spark knock. Today, we have a good batch of three new questions.

Let’s get started.

Question: I have a 2002 Ford Explorer with about 103,000 miles on it. Last week, I was driving home from work and my timing belt broke. It didn’t just slip a notch. It actually snapped. Unfortunately, when it broke, it did some damage to my engine. My mechanic said a couple of pistons are broken and the intake and exhaust valves are bent.

The worst thing about it is that my mechanic had told me to replace the belt a couple of years ago. I didn’t take his suggestion seriously because I figured he was just trying to pad his bill. Can you explain why the belt caused so much damage?

Answer: Thanks for writing, David. Your timing belt goes around the crankshaft, camshaft, and water pump, and helps to control the timing of the intake and exhaust valves. If everything is working properly, the valves will open and close in perfect sync with each piston’s rising and falling within the individual cylinders. When the belt breaks, everything goes wrong.

With “interference” engines, there’s very little margin for error. So, when the belt snaps, the pistons hit the valves and damage them.

On a side note, learn to trust your mechanic as long as his suggestions are consistent with your owner’s manual. 103,000 miles is at the top end for the life of a timing belt. You were definitely playing with fire.

Question: I drive a 2000 Honda Accord with 131,800 miles. There’s nothing wrong with my car yet. It has always driven smoothly and never given me any problems. However, because it’s getting old, I know that parts are going to start failing sooner or later. My mechanic suggested that I use rebuilt parts when the time comes to replace things. Would you make the same recommendation?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Leslie. Be careful with rebuilt parts. Their quality and durability have a lot to do with the workmanship of the rebuilder. And that can go both ways. I’ve seen rebuilts that I half-expected to fail within a month. I’ve also seen rebuilts that were built so well, I’d trust them as much as a new OEM replacement.

If you’re going to use rebuilts, ask the mechanic whether they’re OEM-certified and if they come with a warranty. I’d avoid any replacements (for major parts) that came with less than a 2-year warranty.

Question: I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata with a little over 97,000 miles. I was at my local repair garage a few days ago getting the oil changed. The mechanic comes over and shows me the cap from my radiator. There was this thick, brownish sludge in it. He said the stuff was in my radiator and probably in the coolant system, too. Any idea what caused the sludge to form? Is there any reason for me to be concerned?

Answer: Thanks for sending your question in, Stephen. I’ve seen the type of sludge you’re describing. In my experience, it is caused by stagnant coolant throughout the cooling system. You should be changing the coolant every few years to keep it fresh. I’m going to guess that you haven’t done so. I suggest that you replace the coolant as soon as possible.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to extend my thanks again to David, Leslie, and Stephen for sending in their questions and letting us diagnose their car problems. Next time, I’ll have a new batch of interesting automotive problems from readers to diagnose. Be sure to come back for that. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #51 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #51 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. Recently, I came across a news item about the Ford Motor Company that I found interesting. The New York Times reported that one of their key executives, Alan R. Mulally, had created a plan to take Ford back to the top of the auto industry. Few would argue that the company has a long way to go. But, it was Mulally’s plan that caught my attention.

At a press conference for the 2010 Detroit Auto Show, he unveiled the vehicle that would pave the way for Ford to reclaim their dominance. That vehicle? The Ford Focus. That’s a far cry from the muscle cars on which the company once staked their claim. If you own a Focus, you know firsthand they’re no fun to work on.

Let’s get to today’s segment. We’re going to help Tom with his Infiniti’s alternator. We’re also going to give Brian a hand diagnosing a bad head gasket. Finally, we’ll give Dawn the bad news about the blue smoke coming from her exhaust pipe. Let’s jump in.

Question: I’m driving a 2000 Infiniti QX4 with 114,000 miles. About a month ago, I noticed the battery light came on the dash. There’s a small repair garage by my house, so I had the mechanics run some tests. The problem turned out to be the alternator. So far, so good. I had the shop replace the alternator and things were fine for awhile. Well, last Tuesday, the battery light popped on again. I went back to the same shop and had them take another look. They can’t find any faults for the battery light and said it’s probably the alternator again.

I don’t know much about cars, but why would the first replacement alternator go out so quickly? Any ideas?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Tom. I’ll bet the alternator that the mechanic put in the first time was a budget model. This is something that happens a lot. Mechanics will often recommend a used component in order to save a little money. The problem is, a lot of used parts are unstable. They fail quickly. If you’re going to use them, make sure they’re OEM certified.

By the way, if the problem is not the alternator (and I’m assuming it is), then ask the mechanic to check the powertrain control module.

Question: I own a 2003 Honda Accord with around 81,000 miles. Over the last few weeks, my car has been having trouble accelerating. Once I get it to 65 mph, it runs fine. But, from takeoff up to about 40 mph, it keeps sputtering. Also, it idles really roughly when I’m stopped at red lights. The guy that does maintenance work on my car couldn’t find the problem. Do this sound familiar to you?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Brian. From what you described, it sounds like coolant is leaking into the cylinders. If the coolant gets into the combustion chamber, your car can start misfiring at lower speeds. You wouldn’t necessarily experience a misfire at higher speeds if the amount of coolant is small.

The trick is to find the leak. I’ll bet it’s the head gasket, so have your mechanic start there.

Question: I have a 1999 Acura Integra with 107,000 miles on it. Over the holidays, I was driving to my parents’ house when I suddenly lost power and saw blue smoke starting to pour out of my tailpipe. I had my Integra towed to an auto repair shop near my house. The mechanics checked it out and said that one of my pistons and its exhaust valve had holes in them. Can you explain to me what happened to my car?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Dawn. If your piston and the exhaust valve have holes in them, I’m going to guess the cause is related to spark knock. One of the root causes of spark knock (also called detonation) is an air-fuel mixture that is too lean. A lean mix throws off the combustion process. To start, I recommend checking your fuel injectors for clogs. You might also want to check the oxygen sensor.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. I’d like to thank Tom, Brian, and Dawn for sending in their questions. Be sure to come back for the next segment when we’ll go through a new batch of automotive problems. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #50 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #50 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for today’s installment of the Auto Specialist. Several weeks ago, I mentioned that I had driven past a few dealerships in my area and wasn’t surprised that the lots were empty. This was after the “Cash For Clunkers” deal had ended and a lot of folks expected sales of new vehicles to remain brisk. We now know that sales were destined to slump after the CFC deal had expired. That suggests there are millions of people driving older cars with components that will soon begin failing.

The goal of this column is to educate you about your car and the parts that are responsible for keeping it on the road. Eventually, you should be able to replace parts, such as your fuel pump, oil filter, and catalytic converter. You should also be able to troubleshoot minor problems with your engine and transmission. Today, we’re going to help Dennis understand what an engine leak down test is. We’re also going to help David with his Maxima’s battery. Let’s get started.

Question: I own a 2002 Ford Explorer with 89,000 miles. I took it to a local repair shop a couple of weeks ago to have them run a few tests. They said that my engine has a compression leak and that I should have a leak down test done. I told the mechanics to hold off for now. I’ve been through the archives of the Auto Specialist and can’t find anything about a leak down test. Could you explain what it is?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Dennis. An engine leak down test measures the loss of compression from your cylinders. All cylinders lose a little compression. But, if the loss climbs above 30%, your engine needs serious attention.

With the right tools, you can perform a leak down at home. Visit any auto supply store and pick up a leak down gauge. Then, remove your spark plugs and rotate your engine so that the target cylinder’s piston is at the top center of the combustion chamber. When it is, the intake and exhaust valves should be closed.

One end of the leak down gauge goes into the hole in which the cylinder’s spark plug rested. When you apply air pressure, the gauge will identify the percentage of compression leak. If the leak is significant, you’ll need to diagnose the root cause. That’s a matter of identifying where air is escaping. Hope that helps.

Question: I drive a 2000 Nissan Maxima and there’s 121,400 miles on it. Yesterday, I was stuck on the freeway because there had been an accident. I wasn’t involved in the accident, but it turned the freeway into a parking lot. Nobody could move an inch for over two hours. I kept my car on because it was cold and I wanted to listen to the radio. Eventually, my battery died. I got my car towed home and this morning a friend jump-started it for me. The battery seems fine. Did I do any damage to my car by letting it die like that?

Answer: Thank you for your question, David. In short, probably not. From what you have described, it sounds like you simply ran the battery down by keeping your car on without driving. Driving charges your battery. Now that your friend has provided a jump-start, it should be fine.

That wraps up another segment of the Auto Specialist. Thanks again to Dennis and David for sending in their questions. As always, we’ll have a new batch of car problems to help diagnose in the next installment. Until then, drive safely.

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