12 Jul

Q & A #64 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #64 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. If this is your first time visiting, I’d like to encourage you to take a peek through our archives. Over the past year, we’ve put together an impressive library of automotive Q&A that sheds light on an assortment of car problems. From failing alternators and transmissions to fuel pumps and catalytic converters, we’ve covered it. If you’re experiencing trouble with your vehicle, you’ll likely find the problem has been diagnosed in a past installment.

Today, we’re going to take a look at a misfire that Jason is experiencing with his Accord. We’ll also help Cameron figure out why he’s unable to start his Continental. Lastly, we’ll help Saul with a question he has about his Infiniti QX4′s rough idle. It’s a full docket, so let’s get started.

Question: I have a 2000 Honda Accord with 137,000 miles on it. Over the last week, I’ve been getting a random misfire while driving. It happens both on city streets and at high speeds while I’m on the freeway. Here’s the thing: I’ve done a lot of troubleshooting. I’ve replaced the spark plugs and plug wires, done a compression test, and even checked the manifold absolute pressure sensor. I’ve also gone through the ignition system and looked for trouble codes (I have an OBD-II scanner). Everything seems to check out fine. Can you give me any hints about what may be causing the misfire? Thanks.

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Jason. It sounds like you’ve done a good job troubleshooting. Given that everything you mentioned is checking out, I’d say the problem might be with one of your fuel injectors. Occasionally, the injectors will short out and stay open, allowing fuel to flood the cylinder. If that’s the case, replace the injector and the misfire should disappear.

Question: I’m driving a 1999 Lincoln Continental. I replaced the engine about four years ago and the mileage on the new assembly is at 65,000. I’m having trouble starting it. I tested the battery and it seems fine. It’s putting out plenty of voltage. Any idea what might be the problem?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Cameron. There are a lot of factors that might cause a no-start situation. It could be something in the ignition system (for example, the switch, starter solenoid, starter motor, etc.). It may also be a problem in the fuel line.

Here’s what I recommend: first, pull the trouble codes from your powertrain control module (you’ll need access to a scanner). Second, check to make sure the timing belt is fine. Third, test the pressure in your fuel line to verify your engine is receiving sufficient fuel. Last, test your spark plugs. Most no-start cases can be traced back to those items.

Question: I bought a 2002 Infiniti QX4 a few years ago. It has a little under 94,000 miles. Starting a few months ago, the car began to idle roughly and hesitate when I tried to accelerate. It didn’t happen very often at first, but it happens a lot more frequently now. The technician at my dealership tried to get me to agree to a long list of repairs. But I have a feeling that’s unnecessary. What do you suggest I do?

Answer: Thank you for writing in, Saul. When it comes to engine problems, the best place to start troubleshooting is at the powertrain control module. Invest in an OBD-II code reader (you should be able to buy one online for under $40), and use it to pull trouble codes. I’m surprised the tech at your dealership failed to do this. The codes are a bit vague, but you can find their meanings online. That will point you in the right direction.

That’s it for today’s installment. Thanks again to Jason, Cameron, and Saul for giving us an opportunity to help diagnose their automotive problems. We’ll be back next time with another group of questions, so be sure to join us. Until then, drive safely.

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05 Jul

Q & A #63 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #63 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. If you have been watching the latest automotive news, you’ll have heard of the flying car. Named the Transition and sounding like something from the future, it weighs approximately 110 pounds more than the FAA’s standard weight for light aircraft. Despite this, the FAA has apparently given the automaker Terrafugia the green light to move forward with production. It will be interesting to watch this develop.

In today’s segment, we’re going to help Denise with her Montero’s air conditioner. We’ll also try to diagnose Stanley’s loss of acceleration with his Sante Fe. Lastly, we’ll give Andy the bad news about his Prelude’s engine. There’s lots to address, so let’s jump right in.

Question: I drive a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero with a little over 100,000 miles. I haven’t used my air conditioner for several months. The weather where I live is starting to warm up, so I turned the A/C on and felt only warm air. It was cold the last time I used it, so I’m not sure what’s going on. Do you have any idea why the air is warm? And what do I need to do to fix it? Should I add more refrigerant?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Denise. The problem you’re experiencing could be due to a couple of factors. The first is an insufficient level of refrigerant. The second is a failing compressor. If the refrigerant is low, it usually indicates there’s a leak somewhere in the A/C system. Recharging the system (i.e. adding more refrigerant) would be a waste of money without first fixing the leak. This is a job that is best left to your mechanic.

The second issue, a failing compressor, is something your mechanic will be able to validate with a quick test. If this component has failed, it should be replaced with an OEM-certified unit.

Question: My car is a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 88,000 miles on the engine. I’m having trouble accelerating or even maintaining speed while going up inclines. For example, I might be moving along at 60 mph before hitting the bottom of an incline. My speed will drop to about 40 mph no matter how hard I press on the accelerator. I had the spark plugs changed and the compression tested in the cylinders. I’ve also gone through the exhaust system and replaced the catalytic converter. And just for good measure, I changed the air filter. I’m at a loss to figure the problem out. Can you help?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Stanley. From what you have just described, I’d be willing to bet it’s the fuel pump. It’s not creating enough pressure when you’re going up hills. I suggest putting a new pump in and testing whether that fixes the problem. I’m pretty certain it will.

Question: I’m driving a 1996 Honda Prelude with about 182,000 miles. Yesterday, I noticed white smoke coming from the exhaust pipe. This isn’t the same type of wispy smoke that comes out in the morning (I think that’s from moisture in the pipes). This white smoke is different. It’s heavier. What does the smoke mean? And is this something that I should be worried about?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Andy. The bad news is yes. This is something you should be concerned about. Let me explain what is happening inside your engine to produce the white smoke. It is caused by coolant that is leaking into one of the combustion chambers. The coolant is mixing with the air-fuel blend in the chamber, and being burned during the ignition stroke. This results in white smoke from your tailpipe.

The problem is, coolant gets into the combustion chamber through a failing head gasket, cracked engine block, or a busted cylinder head. These are all major problems. If you keep driving without fixing the underlying cause of the leak, your engine will eventually overheat. Sorry to be the one to tell you this, Andy.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. I’d like to thank Denise, Stanley, and Andy for letting us help them out with their automotive problems. I’ll have a new batch of readers’ questions to address next time. Until then, drive safely.

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14 Jun

Q & A #62 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #62 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. A recent article in the Wall Street Journal reports that early optimism in new car sales this year has faded dramatically. It goes on to report that much of the surge in early-year sales was attributable to car rental agencies and other corporate accounts, as opposed to consumers. As it turns out, consumers have largely abandoned the dealerships as the economy continues to look increasingly uncertain.

If these people are not buying new cars, I’m assuming they’re keeping their current ones on the road. That’s a good idea. It usually costs much less to install a new engine, heater core, or cylinder head than to buy a brand new vehicle.

Today, we’re going to help Daniel figure out what’s causing the “rotten egg” smell in the cabin of his Montero. We’ll also answer Janine’s question about her Neon’s battery. Lastly, we’ll help Patrick figure out why his I30 is idling roughly.

We have a full agenda today, so let’s get started.

Question: I bought a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero a few years back. It currently has 126,000 miles on it. Everything is fine when I’m driving on city streets, but when I get on the freeway, I smell a rotten egg odor. It only seems to happen at high speeds. When I get back onto the city streets, the odor goes away. A friend of mine thought it might be the catalytic converter (it sounds expensive!). Does that seem plausible to you?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Daniel. From what you have described, the air-fuel mixture in one or more of your cylinders is too rich. That is what is producing the odor. If the blend is too rich, your engine’s combustion process will generate more emissions, which will clog your catalytic converter. Whether or not your cat converter is currently failing is a mystery, but I’d definitely have a mechanic figure out why the air-fuel blend is rich. Address that problem first.

Question: I drive a 2004 Dodge Neon with 75,552 miles. Here’s my problem: my car eats batteries. It goes through them much more quickly than it should. Over the last eighteen months, I’ve had to replace the battery three times. My latest one has already run down. Batteries aren’t as expensive as replacing a fuel pump, but the cost is getting up there. What is going on with my car that causes it to drain batteries like this?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Janine. At this point, I think it’s clear that either something in the charging system is malfunctioning and causing a drain, or your alternator is faulty. One way to check the charging system is to start your engine and turn on your headlights. Press down on the accelerator and watch the lights. If there’s no change, the system is likely fine. If the lights dim, the alternator is probably failing. I encourage you to find the underlying problem before replacing your battery again. Otherwise, you’ll simply run the new one down.

Question: I have a 2000 Infiniti I30 with the odometer at a little over 117,000 miles. Lately, it has started to idle roughly. When I’m driving, however, it seems fine (though it has missed a few times). I took the car into the dealer so one of the technicians could look for trouble codes. The mechanic on duty said the problem is in one particular cylinder. Any idea what might be causing the problem?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Patrick. Unfortunately, there are a lot of things that can cause a rough idle and sporadic misfire. If I were you, I’d replace some of the easier parts, such as the spark plugs and wires, and fuel filter. You may also want to test the oxygen sensors to make sure they’re working properly. Also, assuming you know which cylinder is affected, compression test it. If these things check out, take a look at the fuel injector that supplies the cylinder. Hope that gives you a place to start.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to extend my thanks again to Daniel, Janine, and Patrick for letting us help with their automotive problems. Be sure to come back next time when we’ll have a new batch to diagnose. Until then, drive safely.

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