Q & A #18 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #18 With The Auto Specialist

With the economy putting a lot of people on notice about their jobs, more drivers than ever seem willing to keep their older cars on the road. Good decision. New vehicles are expensive. However, the other side of the coin is that auto parts which have suffered wear and tear will eventually malfunction. You’ll need to either have them repaired or replaced.

What we’ve been doing in this regular feature is focusing on readers’ car problems. So, if you’re having an issue with your vehicle and can’t figure it out, let me know about it. In today’s segment, we’ll try to help one reader solve his car’s starting problem. We’ll also take a look at another long-time reader’s brake issue. Let’s dig in.

Question: I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante with a little over 109,000 miles. I’ve been having a problem starting the car for about 6 months. The thing is, it doesn’t happen all of the time which makes it tough for my mechanic to figure out what’s wrong. Sometimes, I’ll turn the key and nothing will happen. And then, at other times, it fires right up.

I changed out the battery awhile back, but it didn’t make a difference. Actually, I had a feeling the battery wasn’t the issue because the radio and other stuff works fine even if my car doesn’t start. So, what the heck is happening?

Answer: That does sound frustrating. From what you’ve described, I’m going to suggest having your mechanic check the ignition switch. There are wires in there which can break and make it hard for the switch to read your key. It’s possible that it’s reading your key sporadically even though it’s broken. If that is the issue, your mechanic should be able to fix it pretty quickly.

Question: I’ve been enjoying your column since you started it and I’ve been learning a lot just by reading. Still afraid to do my own auto repairs, though. In any case, I have a 2000 Honda CR-V with odometer at 120,000. Last month, the anti-lock brake light lit up on my dash. I took it into the Honda dealer and they said repairing the system would cost nearly $1,500. I’m a teacher and that’s a lot of money to me.

Here’s the thing. My brakes actually work well. So, I don’t know why the ABS light is on. Can I just disconnect it?

Answer: I’m glad you’re enjoying the Auto Specialist column. Now, regarding the ABS light, it’s tough to know what is triggering it without performing a test. The anti-lock brake system in your vehicle is actually comprised of several parts and some are expensive. The $1,500 they quoted might be accurate.

Here’s what I’d do: first, go back to the Honda dealer and ask them which part – or parts – they want to replace. Then, take your vehicle to a local garage and have them run a test to get a second opinion. As for disconnecting your anti-lock brake system, I don’t recommend it. Let me know how it goes.

That’s it for now. Hopefully, by reading each installment of the Auto Specialist, you’re learning more about your vehicle and the parts under the hood. As I mentioned, I’ve been receiving a ton of reader mail about car problems. So, we’ll have a new batch of issues to dig out hands into next time. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #17 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #17 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome to another round of Q & A with the Auto Specialist. In this column, we continue to put your car problems under the microscope to figure out what’s wrong and how to fix it. The goal is not to be able to repair everything yourself. Rather, we want to build your knowledge about car parts and components that are integral to the smooth operation of your vehicle.

In the last segment, we looked at two issues. We narrowed one down to an air conditioning compressor that was failing and another down to cracked spark plugs. Today, we’ll help a reader understand her mechanic’s advice regarding her transmission. We’ll also try to solve another reader’s idling problem. There’s a lot to cover so let’s get started.

Question: I bought a 2003 Chrysler Sebring when it was new. I’ve got about 88,000 miles on it. I took it in to a local repair shop a few days ago just to make sure everything was in good condition. They told me that I needed to have my transmission flushed. I’ve never had that service done on my car before, so I didn’t know what to do. I left without having the service performed, but I wanted to ask whether it’s necessary. What do you think?

Answer: You don’t need to have your transmission flushed. This is one of those services that you don’t need, but it’s still promoted by a lot of repair garages and dealership technicians. Now, let me make a quick distinction. Flushing simply means hooking up your Sebring to a machine that pushes out the old transmission fluid. Again, it’s unnecessary. Regular servicing should include a drain of the torque converter, dropping the pan, putting in a new filter, and a fluid refill. That’s all you need.

Question: I have a Ford Mustang (2005 with 45,000 miles) and it has always driven fine. Recently, the battery died. It was my fault because I accidentally left the door ajar overnight (stupid, I know). I recharged the battery, but my car doesn’t idle right. It’s low. Does the car battery have something to do with it?

Answer: The recharge of the battery is causing the odd idling. The good news is that it’s not a serious problem. The computer needs to relearn the proper idling speed. That will happen naturally as you drive. In fact, you can encourage the computer to learn more quickly by driving more. Give it time and your engine will start idling like it did prior to your battery dying.

That’s all we have time for in this installment. Next time, we’ll have two new car problems to dig our hands into. We’ll take a look at a starting problem that one reader is having with his sedan. We’ll also help a reader deal with his car’s brake problem. If this is the first time you’re joining us, be sure to return for the next segment. Until next time, drive safely.

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Q & A #16 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #16 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back. In the last installment of the Auto Specialist, we looked at an overheating problem that a reader was experiencing. We also discussed an issue that one driver was having with a failing alternator. Today, we’re going to explore two new car problems: one with an air conditioning unit and another that is causing a misfire. These two issues occur frequently, so both are good additions to this column. Let’s jump right in.

Question: I own a 2004 Infiniti FX35 that I purchased when it was new. It has 97,500 miles on it (I’m on the road a lot for work). The problem I’m having is that my A/C is putting out warm air when I’m driving. I’ve tried to put freon in, but that didn’t change anything. I’ve also made sure that the compressor comes on. This is the first time I’ve ever had a problem with my car. I’m in Arizona, so I need the A/C (especially because I drive so much). Do you have any idea what is causing the warm air to come out?

Answer: It sounds like your compressor isn’t working properly. Even though it comes on when you’re running your A/C, it’s possible that it is not pressurizing the freon. If the freon isn’t pressurized, it won’t produce cool air. I would take your vehicle to a mechanic to have him test the compressor. If that is truly the issue, and he’s unable to fix it, you’ll need to have it replaced.

Question: I drive a 2003 Volkswagen Golf and have never had any complaints. It’s a great little car. The mileage is about 83,000, so last week I changed out the spark plugs. My car has been misfiring ever since. The plugs are brand new, so I shouldn’t be getting a misfire, right? I thought that only happened with bad plugs. Can you tell me what’s causing the problem?

Answer: I think I know what might have happened. When you put the new spark plugs in, you might have tightened one or more of them too tightly. Each plug has a porcelain insulator which supports the electrode. If you tightened one of them too far, you can accidentally crack it. Take each plug out and look at the insulator for cracks.

By the way, if this turns out to be the issue, don’t feel badly. I’ve seen experienced mechanics crack insulators accidentally while tuning up older cars. They’re more fragile than they look.

In the next installment of the Auto Specialist, we’ll look at a new batch of car issues. I’ve been receiving emails from owners asking questions about a variety of parts. As I’ve mentioned in the past, the more you know about your vehicle and the components that make it run smoothly, the better. Eventually, you’ll start doing minor repair jobs at home, saving you a trip to your mechanic. Until next time, drive safely.

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