Q & A #22 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Car Q and A

Q & A #22 With The Auto Specialist

If this is your first time reading my Auto Specialist column, welcome. Our purpose here is to help readers figure out what is happening under the hood of their vehicles. After all, car parts don’t last forever. The older they get, the more likely they are to malfunction, or fail entirely. The problem is that when they do, the reason is not always clear. What’s more, it’s often not even clear which part is causing the problem in the first place.

I’ve been receiving a ton of great questions from readers. So, thanks to all of you. I’d like to remind those of you writing in with your car problems to include your vehicle’s make, model, year, and mileage. You may be surprised by how much that helps.

Let’s jump right in with today’s questions.

Question: I own a gorgeous 1998 Ford Mustang with a little over 121,000 miles. Last week, I took the normal brake pads off and had the guy at my local garage put on Hawk Performance Ceramic pads. That same day, my brakes started to squeal. Now, I realize that new pads can sometimes do that, but it hasn’t gone away. In fact, the squealing seems to be getting louder.

Here’s my question for you. Are the performance brake pads not suited for my Mustang? Or, did the mechanic put them on badly? I realize that squealing is usually caused by vibrations between the pad and rotor. But, I’m pretty sure the pads aren’t loose, because they came with clips that lock into place. For what it’s worth, my car stops on a dime with these brakes, so I don’t want to get rid of them. Care to give me your best guess on why they’re squealing?

Answer: Hi Chad. The answer is probably simpler than you imagine, but I doubt you’ll like it. The fact is, performance brakes squeal. Even if they’re locked into place, they’re noisy. That means your options are limited to tolerating the noise or putting the old brake pads back on. From what you’ve described, I don’t think they’re malfunctioning.

Question: I have a 2003 Toyota Sienna and the odometer reads 82,000. In December of last year, my car’s alternator died. I had it towed to a garage near where I live and asked the guys working there to replace it. They also did a check for fault codes, but didn’t find any.

In February, the replacement died when I was on the freeway. Very frustrating to say the least. I had my car towed to the same repair shop and had them check it out. Again, no fault codes. But, they replaced the alternator and didn’t charge me for it. A few weeks ago, the darn thing died again. This is the third alternator. My car is sitting in my garage, because I’m not sure what to do. Luckily, my wife can drive me back and forth to work. Any ideas?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Gary. My first guess is that the repair garage is putting in low-quality alternators in your car. I don’t know where they’re buying them from, but I’ll bet they’re not OEM. If they are OEM or high-quality replacements, I’d be willing to bet there’s a problem with the PCM. That could be why the mechanics are not finding any fault codes.

First, I’d ask them about the quality of their alternators. If you need to pay a little more for a top-notch replacement, it’s worth it.

Thanks again to Chad and Gary. Both of your questions will add nicely to our growing library of automotive knowledge. We’ll attack a few new questions in the next segment, so make sure to join me for it. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #21 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Car Q and A

Q & A #21 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back. In this regular column, we take a close look at car problems that readers are having. I try to diagnose the issues, narrow it down to the parts and systems involved, and offer my thoughts on how to resolve them. In today’s segment, we’re going to help a reader named Paul figure out his Ram’s backfire problem. We’ll also going to help Jenny with her Prelude’s power steering. Let’s get started.

Question: I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 with about 81,000 miles on it. It’s a great truck and has never given me any trouble until now. A couple of days ago, I was getting onto the freeway by my house. Usually, I punch the gas pedal to pick up speed at the beginning of the ramp so I can merge without a hassle. When I did it a few days ago, my truck backfired. Now, it backfires almost every time I hit the pedal.

Just so you know, I treat my truck really well and keep up on all the regular maintenance items. I’ve even looked at the hoses and can’t find any cracks or leaks. Any ideas about what’s going on?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Paul. Your Ram’s backfire could be caused by a few things. From what you’ve described, it sounds like there may be a problem with the fuel pump. Here’s how it works: when you hit the gas pedal, your fuel pump creates pressure in the line that feeds the engine. If the pressure is off, your engine starves and can backfire. My other thought is that it might be the spark plugs or something in the ignition system. Since you take great care of your truck, I’ll assume the plugs are good.

Bottom line: have your mechanic test the fuel pump. If it’s fine, ask him to look at the ignition.

Question: I’m having a major problem with my Honda Prelude. I bought it new back in 2001 and it has around 113,000 miles. I think the problem is something in the steering wheel. When I turn my car on and let it sit there, the steering wheel is really hard to turn. If I press on my gas pedal, it gets a lot easier. One more thing, yesterday I noticed a greenish spot on my driveway right around where my engine is when I park my car. Is that steering fluid? And how can I make my steering wheel turn more easily?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Jenny. First things first. The greenish spot you noticed on your driveway isn’t steering fluid. I’m betting that it’s coolant.

Now, to your steering problem, check the fluid level before doing anything else. There’s a reservoir that sits in the front of your engine. Pop the cap and look at the level on the stick. If it’s low, refilling the reservoir should help. If the fluid is at the proper level, you’ll need to take your car into a repair shop. If I had to guess (again, assuming the fluid level is fine), I’d say one of the fan belts that controls your car’s power steering pump has come loose.

Thanks again to Paul and Jenny for writing in. I appreciate your questions and hope my answers help. In the next installment of the Auto Specialist, we’re going to look at an issue with one reader’s brake pads as well as another reader’s alternator problem. Definitely tune into the column next time. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #20 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #20 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the latest segment of the Auto Specialist. You might remember from the last installment that we helped a reader diagnose her car’s pinging issue. We also tried to figure out why clouds of white smoke were coming out of another reader’s exhaust. I’d like to reiterate that our goal in this column is twofold. First, I want to continue adding to your knowledge of car parts and the reasons they fail. Second, I want to build a library of possible solutions that you can refer to over time.

Today, we’re going to dig into two more issues. The first is from a reader who reports that his Camry keeps dying when he’s in “stop and go” traffic. The second was sent in by a reader who says his Concorde’s radiator is releasing steam. Let’s help them both out.

Question: I’ve owned my 2000 Toyota Camry since buying it brand new. The odometer reads 122,400 miles. About three months ago, it started dying on me whenever I let it sit for long periods on the freeway. For example, a couple weeks back, I was sitting there for nearly an hour because of an accident. I had my stereo going and my A/C was on, and then everything just died. That’s the fourth time it’s happened.

When the AAA guy comes and jump-starts my car, it drives fine. But, at this point, I’m sure it’s going to happen again. I live in L.A. and traffic is horrible. What would you suggest I do?

Answer: Hi Scott. The good news is that you probably don’t have a major problem on your hands. From what you’ve described, I’m guessing the problem is with the battery. The fact that it dies only when you’re letting your car idle for a long time tells me that the battery doesn’t have enough voltage. That’s likely because you’re draining it while letting your engine idle. If you ever find yourself on the L.A. freeways waiting for an accident to clear, I suggest turning your engine – and everything else – off.

Question: I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with the mileage at about 131,000. I think my mechanic is giving me the run around and I want to get your thoughts. The radiator in my car is leaking steam. I don’t think there’s a danger of the engine overheating because the temp gauge on my dash looks fine. The water and coolant in the radiator are at the proper levels, too.

I went to my dealership and had them switch out the hoses (I didn’t know what else to do). The guy who swapped them out told me that I need a new gasket and water pump. I had them do the gasket, but the water pump is expensive, so I wanted to ask you about it. There’s still steam coming from the radiator, which means the new gasket and hoses didn’t fix it. Do I need to spend the money on a water pump?

Answer: Hi George. Here’s the thing: the steam that you’re noticing probably means one of the components of your cooling system is leaking. You need to find the leak. If it’s coming from the water pump, then yes, you’ll need a replacement. Sorry for the bad news. I know it can be expensive.

That’s another wrap. Two great questions for our ongoing series, so thanks to both Scott and George. Next time, we’ll get our hands dirty with a few more car problems. Be sure to come back and improve your automotive knowledge. Until then, drive safely.

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