Q & A #25 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Car Q and A

Q & A #25 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. In today’s installment, I’m going to respond to a reader’s question about a noisy fan belt in a car he’s thinking about buying. We’re also going to take a look at a misfire problem that a reader is experiencing.

Before we get into today’s car problems, I want to make a quick comment about buying parts. From your emails, it’s clear that specific components – from alternators to fuel pumps to engines – need to be replaced. I suspect that a few of you are relying upon low-cost rebuilt units. Be careful. The quality can range from fantastic to poor. If you have the budget, definitely consider investing in Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) parts. They’re more expensive, but they’re reliable.

Let’s get started.

Question: I went to a local used lot yesterday and saw a 2003 Pontiac Vibe with 82,000 miles on it. I’m thinking about purchasing it because it looks and drives clean. The only thing is that something under the hood is making an awful noise when the engine is on. I have a feeling the noise is coming from the fan belt. The sales guy on the lot said it’s nothing to worry about, but I wanted to get your opinion. Do you think it’s the fan belt? And assuming the noise doesn’t go away on its own, am I going to be on the hook for an expensive repair job?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Jake. The noise you’ve described may be caused by the fan belt or it could be caused by a pulley. There’s even a small chance it’s coming from the water pump, clutch, or something else. Because your email didn’t mention it, I’ll assume you haven’t sprayed WD40 on the belt yet. That’s the first test. Turn the engine on, pop the hood, and wait for the noise. When you hear it, spray the belt.

If that eliminates the noise, it means the rubber of the fan belt is likely cracked or hardened. Replacing it will probably cost between $100 and $200, including labor.

Question: I have a 2004 Volkswagen Passat with a little over 69,000 miles. For the past month, I’ve been getting a misfire. It feels like it’s coughing when I hit the gas pedal. It happens sporadically and used to only occur when I was accelerating to get onto the freeway. But, now, the misfiring is happening at lower speeds and more often. Here’s the thing, the mechanic at the Volkswagen dealership said there are no codes when they run the tests. Any ideas about what’s causing it?

Answer: Thanks for your email, Doreen. My first thought is that your fuel pump may be failing. I’d have the mechanics check that first. If the fuel pump is fine, I’d go through and replace the spark plugs, wires, and filters. Basically, I’d have the auto techs at your dealership perform a tune-up, even though 69,000 miles is early for it. If my guess is right, that should resolve the misfire.

Thanks for your questions Jake and Doreen. Both make nice additions to our growing library of car problems and solutions. Next time, we’ll help a reader with his car’s air conditioning issue. We’ll also take a look at another gentleman’s fuel injection system. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #24 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #24 With The Auto Specialist

One of the most interesting trends I’ve noticed lately is that a growing number of people are keeping their older vehicles on the road rather than buying new ones. Older cars translates into older parts. And that means a greater likelihood of getting stranded as the result of a component failure.

I started this column to help people figure out why certain parts fail. Even though I can’t physically run diagnostic tests on your car, there are always clues to the factors that are causing the problem. In this segment, we’re going to help a reader understand why his SUV’s charging system seems to be failing. We’re also going to take a look at another reader’s anti-lock brakes. Let’s get started.

Question: I’m driving a 2000 Ford Explorer with 107,000 miles. It has always handled well and has never given me any major problems. Until now. For whatever reason, it will intermittently fail to start. Sometimes, the engine cranks perfectly and other times, there’s no sign of life at all. At first, I thought the problem was due to my not driving it for a couple of days in a row. But, it’s happened after just letting it sit overnight.

I should mention that the guys at my dealer can’t find anything wrong. They claim they’ve run all the tests on my Explorer’s charging system and haven’t been able to find a problem. Well, there’s obviously a problem because it won’t start. What do you think?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Allen. Assuming the technicians at your dealership have gone through the normal diagnostics, I’m thinking the problem is the battery. It sounds like it’s simply not holding the charge. If you have the tools available, try to load test it. Just keep in mind that a load test won’t uncover a short inside the battery. But, if it fails the test, at least you know that you’ll need to replace it.

Question: I bought a 2005 Honda Accord last year and love it. There’s a little under 53,000 miles on it. My question has to do with the anti-lock brake indicator light on my dash. It went on a few weeks ago, but I haven’t noticed any difference in how my brakes work. Just to be safe, I took my car to the Honda dealer to see whether they would tell me if something was wrong. They said my ABS system was malfunctioning and it would cost $1,500 to fix it.

I want to make sure my car is safe to drive, but I can’t afford $1,500. And like I said, the brakes seem to work great. Can I just disengage the anti-lock part of my brakes and do without the $1,500 job? What are my options?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Tony. First, don’t “disengage” your anti-lock system. It’s there for a reason and disengaging it removes one of the best ways to avoid a collision. That said, you didn’t mention what the technicians at the Honda dealership suggested replacing. The fact is, your Accord’s ABS is made up of a number of components. Some cost far more than others. Is $1,500 a reasonable estimate? It depends upon what they’re actually fixing.

I would suggest taking your car back to the dealership and asking them to clarify what they intend to fix or replace. Then, write back to me and we’ll explore it further.

Thanks to both Allen and Tony for your questions. Chances are, other readers will get plenty of value just from having read them. We’re building a small backlog of great questions from those of you who have written in. In upcoming segments, we’ll be looking at problems involving vacuum leaks, suspension issues, timing belts, fuel pumps, and more. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #23 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #23 With The Auto Specialist

We have a couple of great questions to address in this installment of the Auto Specialist. Barry writes in about his Silverado’s overheating engine (and he has obviously done his homework). And Stacey writes in about her Honda Element’s transmission.

If this is your first time reading the column, let me encourage you to go through our past segments. We’ve built a wonderful library of automotive knowledge as readers have sent in their car problems and I’ve tried my luck at fixing them. Having said that, let’s get started with today’s questions.

Question: I drive a 2005 Chevy Silverado. It has just a bit over 51,000 miles on it. About a month ago, it started to overheat every once in awhile. When I drive, I almost always have the A/C going. What I’ve noticed is that my truck’s heat gauge starts climbing whenever I top about 5,500 RPMs. If I turn the A/C off, the gauge goes back down.

I’ve already checked the level of coolant in the radiator. It’s fine. My head gasket seems fine, too. I put in a new water pump about six months ago, so I’m pretty sure that’s working good. The fans that blow across the radiator work well. At this point, I’m not sure what could be causing the problem. But, I know that if I push my truck to 5,500 RPMs with my A/C on, it will overheat. Any ideas?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Barry. From what you’re describing, I’m willing to bet the radiator has a minor blockage. Because your Silverado doesn’t overheat until you’re pushing the RPMs up, the coolant is flowing. However, I’ll bet there’s some residue or rust that has collected on the bottom. If that’s the case, I suggest you look for another radiator.

Question: My 2002 Honda Element is shifting weird. It feels slippery, like the gears aren’t connecting with each other properly. I put a lot of miles on it for my job (the odometer is at 124,847), so I know my car needs servicing. I’m planning to take it in to the dealer next week, but I wanted to ask if you knew what was causing the slippery feeling when it shifts.

Answer: Thanks for your email, Stacey. I have some bad news. Your transmission is failing, which is not uncommon for vehicles with that many miles. Unfortunately, there’s usually no way to fix a failing tranny. Here’s what I’d do: have the auto tech at your dealer test it. If he confirms that the transmission is going bad, order a rebuilt from the dealer. That will give you a warranty that will be alive wherever you go. You can have a local mechanic put it in to save a few dollars.

Thanks to both Barry and Stacey for sharing their car problems with us. Next time, we’ll help a reader figure out his car’s charging problem. We’ll also help a gentleman understand the advice he’s getting from his dealer about his car’s brakes. Be sure to come back for that installment. Until then, drive safely.

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