30 Jul

Q & A #29 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #29 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining us for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. You might remember from last time that we helped a reader with his car’s “jerking” engine. I had recommended that Jesse have the spark plugs and wires changed. He wrote back to say that the spark plugs were indeed the problem. So, I’m glad to hear that we’re helping some folks solve their car problems.

Today, we’re going to help Nick figure out why the engine light keeps coming on in his Honda Civic. We’ll also help Frank resolve a problem that he’s having with his Monte Carlo’s tires wearing out too quickly. Without further ado, let’s get started.

Question: I have an old 1990 Honda Civic with over 223,000 miles on it. Believe it or not, it runs really well. A week ago, I took it on the road to visit a friend in Wisconsin. Out of nowhere, the light for the engine went on. Because the car is so old, I’m always a little paranoid about things breaking down. So, I pulled over and checked all of the hoses and belts. Everything looked fine. The next day, it did the same thing. There was no smoke, so I know I wasn’t overheating. The light went off again and now it’s back on. I wanted to get your opinion about what you think is causing the problem. Any ideas?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Nick. First, you’re a brave man for taking a 20-year-old car on a road trip to see your friend. That said, Honda makes great vehicles. Regarding the light, I’ll bet it’s the oxygen sensor. You have a lot of miles on your car and I’m surprised the sensor hasn’t fail in the past. Have a mechanic test it and replace it if it’s malfunctioning.

Question: Got a question for you. I own a 2001 Chevrolet Monte Carlo and it has 116,000 miles. Drives like a dream and me and my wife love the ride. I had replacement struts put in last December, but my tires are already worn down. I can even see the steel poking through on the front passenger tire. I explained the problem to the guy who works at the dealership (I had the struts put in elsewhere) and he said there’s no way to fix it. How can there be no way to fix something like that? That doesn’t sound right. What do you think?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Frank. Right off the bat, I’d say the technician at your dealership either misunderstood what you explained or he simply doesn’t want to do the job. From what you’ve described, your wheels are out of alignment. The toe in or toe out is off if your tires are wearing out that quickly. The good news is that toe issues can be fixed pretty easily. I’d suggest taking your vehicle to another shop.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. My sincere thanks to both Nick and Frank for letting us help them out. If you’re experiencing a car problem that you’re unable to solve, let me know. Otherwise, tune back in next time when we help reader Janice figure out why her car is hesitating and reader Bernard with his Continental’s cruise control. Until then, drive safely.

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21 Jul

Q & A #28 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #28 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. If you have never read this ongoing column before, I invite you to take a look through our archives. By answering readers’ questions, we’ve managed to amass an impressive collection of car problems and their resolutions. In this installment, we’ll help Jesse out with his Ford’s jerking engine. We’ll also help Steven solve a problem with his Chevy’s starter. That’s a full schedule, so let’s jump right in.

Question: Last year, I bought a 2003 Ford F-250. It has a manual transmission with over 106,000 miles. During the past month, the engine has been jerking a lot whenever the rpms hit 2000. At first, I thought it was only happening in 2nd and 3rd gear, but it has actually been happening no matter what gear I’m in.

Here’s the thing… either the mechanics at my dealership don’t know what they’re doing or this is the biggest truck mystery they’ve ever seen. They’ve cleared out the fuel injectors, said a few of the cylinders were firing poorly, and even put in a new fuel pump. Nothing has worked and it’s getting expensive. Now they’re saying my truck needs a new set of fuel injectors. Any idea what is causing the jerking?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Jesse. I admit, this is a difficult one to solve. Since I’m unable to look under the hood myself, I’m practically guessing here. That said, I would take your truck to a local mechanic and have them replace the spark plugs and wires. If you’re still having a problem, replace the air and fuel filters. I’m assuming your truck is no longer covered by its warranty, so there’s no need to go back to the dealership. Besides, the fact that they suggested new fuel injectors after taking your money to clean out your current set makes them seem dubious.

Question: I’m really enjoying the column, but never thought I’d write in for your help. I have a 1999 Chevrolet Lumina with 147,000 miles on it. I’m on my fourth starter over the last year and a half. I’m not an expert with cars, but even I know that four starters is excessive. My mechanic (the same guy who put the starters in) is convinced that another part is causing them to malfunction, but he’s not sure where the problem is. Fortunately, he’s been giving me a good deal on the starters, so I’m not out that much money. Would you happen to know why they’re failing so quickly?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question Steven. I’m glad to hear you’re enjoying the column. Regarding your problem, I have a sneaking suspicion that you’re using rebuilt parts. Frankly, I think that’s the issue. In all my experience with replacement parts, I have never seen as many problems as I have with rebuilt starters. This is the sole reason I recommend everyone use original equipment manufacturer (OEM) starters. Spend a few extra dollars. You’ll thank me when the OEM starter lasts.

That’s it for this round of car questions. Thanks again to Jesse and Steven for sharing their automotive troubles with us. If you haven’t already done so, take the time to go through our growing archive of questions. And be sure to come back and join us for the next installment. Until then, drive safely.

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13 Jul

Q & A #27 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #27 With The Auto Specialist

If you’re a regular reader, thanks for rejoining us for this installment of the Auto Specialist. If you’re reading for the first time, welcome. In this recurring column, we take a close look at two or three car problems and help readers figure out the root source. There’s no way I can guarantee that my diagnosis is correct because I’m not actually inspecting the vehicle. That said, we usually get pretty close.

In today’s column, we’ll help Jonathan resolve his air conditioning troubles. We’ll also help Ben with a problem he’s having while trying to crank the engine in his Prelude. By the way, thanks to everyone who has written in with their car questions. I promise we’ll get to them soon. Let’s get started.

Question: I bought a 2007 Hyundai Sonata when it was new and the engine currently has a little under 22,000 miles on it. The problem is with my A/C. It’s blowing warm air. I took it to a local mechanic and the guy said my A/C isn’t working because of a leak. But, he couldn’t explain how a leak had developed in a relatively new car. Other than this, the car runs beautifully. I’ve never had a problem. But, I live in Texas and the heat is already killing me. Should I just have the mechanic fix the leak or is something else causing the air to be warm?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Jonathan. The problem with air conditioning leaks is that they can be caused by a number of things. For example, one of the hoses could have ruptured or the evaporator core might be leaking. It can also be a compressor or seal. Here’s what I’d do. Drive to the dealership and ask them to run a dye through the system. They’ll have the equipment to see the dye leaking from the affected area and can fix it quickly. The good news is that your Sonata is still under its warranty. So, you won’t have to pay for the repairs.

Question: I drive a 2000 Honda Prelude with the mileage at 117,500. It’s a great car… when it’s running. The thing is, I’ve been having trouble starting it for the past three weeks. When I turn the key, nothing happens. The lights in the cabin don’t come on, the power windows won’t work, and my radio is dead. My roommate has been jump-starting it for me and it’ll run fine for the rest of the day. But, by the next morning, it’s dead again. Does that ring any bells for you? Do you know why my car is not starting?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Ben. I’m guessing the problem is with your charging system. I suggest load testing your battery first since it’s the easiest step. If it load tests fine, check for a drain. You can do that by taking the negative cable off the post and attaching a 12-volt tester to the post and the detached cable. If the tester doesn’t light up, your battery is probably fine. In that case, check the amperage of your alternator. Hope that helps.

Thanks to both Jonathan and Ben for writing in and letting us help with their car problems. Next time, we’ll help a reader named Jesse figure out why his Ford truck is acting like a bronco (it’s jerking on the road). We’ll also take a look under the hood of Steven’s Chevy Lumina to resolve a persistent starter problem. Until then, drive safely.

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