20 Aug

Q & A #32 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #32 With The Auto Specialist

Before we get started with today’s segment of the Auto Specialist, I’d like to get something off my chest. For those of you who have been reading this column from the beginning, what I’m about to say won’t surprise you. Consider it a reminder. On the other hand, new readers need to hear this:

When you replace parts and components that have failed, you should be investing in OEM replacements. I have lost count of the number of times people have told me they have bought rebuilt parts that failed soon after driving away from the repair garage. OEM parts cost more, but they’re far more reliable. This is important and I’ll likely mention it again in the future.

With that out of the way, let’s dig into today’s car questions. Jonathan has written in to ask about a rotten smell coming from his Passat. We’ll also help Tony decide whether he should buy a used Accord without the maintenance paperwork.

Question: Love the column and hope you can help. I have a 2004 Volkswagen Passat with 68,500 miles on the odometer. Lately, I’ve noticed that when I’m cruising at highway speed (65 mph or above), my car puts out a rotten smell. It smells like I have bad eggs with me in the cabin. It’s embarrassing when friends are with me. Any idea what might be causing the problem? I wanted to check with you before taking my car to the dealership (they’d probably want to replace everything).

Answer: Thanks for writing, Jonathan. Because you’re smelling that odor at high speeds, I’m guessing the problem is the fuel and air mixture. When the mix is richer than it should be, it can produce an odor that smells like eggs that have turned bad. There’s a chance that your catalytic converter may have failed. However, before having it replaced (they’re expensive), ask a mechanic to check the fuel-air mix. If it’s too rich, correcting it should get rid of the smell.

Question: A couple days ago, I came across a 2000 Honda Accord that the owner is selling for a great price. It has 105,640 miles on it, looks clean, and I’m thinking about buying it. The problem is that the seller doesn’t have all of the maintenance records. He has some, but they’re spotty. So, I can’t tell if he’s gotten the oil changed regularly or when other items have been done. He claims that he has followed the service schedule in the owner’s manual to a “T,” but can’t prove it. Would you buy the car if you were in my position?

Answer: Thanks for your email, Tony. To your question, no. I wouldn’t buy the car. At least, I wouldn’t buy it with any expectations. The thing is, service records are incredibly easy to retrieve because they’re kept on computers. Even if he lost the receipts over the years, he can still retrieve them. All it takes (usually) is to contact the dealership or service garages at which he’s had the work done. Call me a cynic, but if he can’t produce the records, I would assume he hasn’t had the work performed.

That’s it for now. My thanks to Jonathan and Tony for writing in with their questions. For those of you who have emailed me asking when I’m planning to address your own questions, I promise to get to them. I have a large backlog, but we’re making progress. Be sure to join back next time when we tackle a few new car problems. Until then, drive safely.

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11 Aug

Q & A #31 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #31 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist, a regular column in which I try to diagnose readers’ car problems to help them get back on the road. If this is your first time reading, keep in mind that I can’t see under the hood of the cars. That means my diagnosis – and by extension, my troubleshooting – will be somewhat limited. Having said that, judging from the emails I’ve received, we hit the mark more times than not.

In the last installment, we helped Janice figure out why her Frontier was hesitating when she hit the gas pedal. We also helped Bernard with the cruise control in his Continental. This time, we’re going to address a question about synthetic motor oil from a reader named Tom. We’re also going to help Isaac with his PT’s steering problem.

Let’s get started.

Question: I have a question for you about synthetic oil blends. A friend told me that I should definitely be using them in my Chevrolet Blazer. It’s a 2002 with about 96,000 miles on it. He said synthetics are better for the engine because they offer more protection from friction. The mechanic who works at the garage near my house said it doesn’t really matter. The thing is, synthetic oil costs more than the brand I’m using. I don’t mind spending a little more money if that means my Blazer’s engine will last longer. Especially with nearly 100,000 miles on it. But, I don’t want to spend the money if there’s no difference. What do you think?

Answer: I appreciate your writing in, Tom. Both your friend and the mechanic are correct… sort of. Synthetic motor oil is cleaner with fewer contaminants. It also breaks down more slowly than conventional oils, which means you’ll need to replace it less frequently. So, the cost factor balances itself out. That said, if you haven’t been using it for your Blazer, I wouldn’t start. Synthetics are not suited for high-mileage vehicles.

Question: I drive a 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser with the mileage just over 82,350. It’s a beauty of a car, but my steering wheel is giving me a problem. It’s hard to turn at slow speeds and when I do turn it, I hear a loud creaking sound. If I press on the gas pedal, the steering wheel is easier to turn, but at slow speeds and while idling, it’s really difficult. The other day, I saw a few spots of greenish fluid on my driveway under the engine. Is that steering fluid? If so, what do you recommend I do?

Answer: Thanks for your email, Isaac. It definitely sounds like your Cruiser has a leak. The green fluid on your driveway is probably coolant. Here’s what I suggest: turn your car off, pop the hood, and find the power steering reservoir near the front end of your PT’s engine. Take the cap off and fill the reservoir. Then, crank the engine and take a look for any leaks. There are usually two hoses leading from the steering pump; both can develop leaks. If you find any, have them fixed.

That’s it for today’s installment. Thanks again to Tom and Isaac for sharing their questions. Next time, we’ll take a look at the catalytic converter in a reader’s Volkswagen Passat. We’ll also help another reader decide whether to buy a used Accord from an owner who doesn’t have all of the maintenance records. Be sure to come back for that. Until then, drive safely.

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07 Aug

Q & A #30 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #30 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. In the last installment, we helped a reader named Nick understand why his engine light kept coming on during a road trip (it wasn’t due to overheating). We also helped Frank figure out why the treads on his tires were wearing down so quickly. We’re going to switch gears this time and help Janice with her Frontier which hesitates when she accelerates. We’ll also take a look at a cruise control problem that a reader named Bernard is experiencing.

If you’re reading this column for the first time, let me encourage you to spend a few minutes going through the archives. We’ve put together a great library of answers to readers’ questions about their cars, and the various components and systems that fail. Let’s jump in and help Janice.

Question: I bought a 2003 Nissan Frontier last year with the mileage at 82,655. It started having problems about three weeks ago whenever I’d hit the gas pedal, especially when accelerating to get on the freeway. Whenever I press the pedal down, the truck feels like it’s waiting for gas to reach the engine. It hesitates (I’m not sure how else to describe it) before it finally starts accelerating. At first, it only happened at higher speeds. Now, it happens all the time.

I took the truck to my dealer last week and they put in new spark plugs, a fuel filter, and a replacement distributor cap (I think). But, it’s still hesitating. What would you suggest I do?

Answer: Thank you for writing in, Janice. In my experience, given that we’re eliminating the parts your dealer replaced, I’ve seen oxygen sensors cause the problem you’ve described. Since you didn’t mention it, I’ll assume the auto technicians at your dealer didn’t put a new one in. That’s where I’d start. If that doesn’t help, make sure the fuel injectors are clear. Then, have the techs check for codes from the computer.

Question: Really like the column. I have a 2000 Lincoln Continental with a bit over 102,500 on the odometer. My wife and I use the car a lot when we drive to see our kids. It’s a long stretch, so we put the cruise control on. It usually works fine, but lately I’ve noticed the speed goes up and down from what I set it at. It’s frustrating because I don’t like to speed, even on the highways. But, I’ll look down and notice I’m 7 or 8 miles per hour above or below 65. I know it’s not a big deal, but I’d really like to fix the problem. Any idea what’s causing the change in speed?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Bernard. I would have a mechanic pop the hood and check the speed sensor (it’s by the transmission). In my experience, it’s not worth trying to fix the sensor if it’s failing. Instead, have a replacement put in. I’ll bet that will fix the problem for you.

That’s it for this segment. Thanks again to both Janice and Bernard. If you’re having problems with your vehicle and are willing to let me share those problems with other readers, let me know your vehicle’s make, model, and mileage. We’ll have another installment of the Auto Specialist ready next time with a new group of car problems to solve. Until then, drive safely.

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