Q & A #39 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #39 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for another installment of the Auto Specialist. This past weekend, I spent a little time going through the archives of this ongoing column. I was amazed by the breadth of automotive problems we’ve covered. So, if you have free time and want to enjoy a crash course in car parts and repairs, take a peek through the archives.

In the last segment, we helped Andrea choose between a 4-cylinder and 6-cylinder engine. We also helped Steve remove the spark plugs from his Nissan Maxima without destroying the threads. Today, I’m going to answer a question from a reader named Charlotte about replacement parts. We’re also going to help Brian understand why there’s a knocking sound coming from his engine. Let’s dig in.

Question: I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring with 82,000 miles. Last week, I was leaving the gym and got into my car. I turned the key and it wouldn’t start. So, I had it towed to a mechanic that has done some maintenance work for me in the past. He said the alternator had failed and that I needed to replace it. He quoted me $550 and said he’d put in an OEM replacement. That’s a lot of money to me and I wanted to ask you whether there was a less expensive alternative.

Answer: Thanks for your question, Charlotte. The good news is that there is a less expensive alternative. The bad news is that you should avoid it. A failed alternator should only be replaced with an OEM unit. That way, you’ll know exactly what you’re buying and you’ll enjoy peace of mind that the part’s quality is up to par. If you are extremely limited with your budget, you could save money by buying a rebuilt alternator. But, I’ve seen the quality range from good to surprisingly bad. If I were you, I’d go with the OEM part.

Question: I’m driving a 1997 Honda Passport and I’ve put 148,840 miles on it. Recently, I’ve started to hear a knocking sound coming from my engine. It doesn’t happen when I’m driving on the city streets. It only happens when I’m on the freeway. The thing is, my Passport seems to operate just fine. There no loss of power as far as I can tell. But, a friend of mine said the sound could be a major problem and that I should have it checked by a mechanic. Any idea what is causing the knocking?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Brian. It sounds like you’re dealing with spark knock. If that’s the case, your friend is right. It’s a problem. Here’s what’s probably happening: for some reason, the combustion of the air-fuel mixture within your engine’s combustion chamber is erratic. As a result, the fuel is detonating unpredictably. It’s actually worse than it sounds because it can cause damage to your engine. I’d have your mechanic take a look at the problem as quickly as possible.

That’s a wrap for this installment. I’d like to say thanks again to both Charlotte and Brian for sharing their questions with us. We have a truckload of other great car questions still in the queue. Next time, we’ll help a reader named Jason figure out how auto repair shops price their services. And we’ll also help Ryan with a problem he’s having with his Galant’s fuel pump. Until next time, drive safely.

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Q & A #38 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #38 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. I’d like to start with a couple of quick reminders. First, if you’re unfamiliar with this column, I invite you to look through the archives. There’s a lot of automotive knowledge that has built up over the the past 37 installments. I use this column to respond to readers’ questions about problems they’re experiencing with their vehicles. Sometimes, the problems are easy to diagnose. Other times, they’re mysterious. There’s always an opportunity to learn something new.

Second, the goal is not to train you to become your own mechanic. By reading each installment of the Auto Specialist, you’ll eventually learn to perform small auto repair jobs yourself. But, that’s not the real goal. Instead, this column is simply for education. When the time comes to purchase new replacement parts, you’ll know exactly how they work.

Today, I’m going to address a question from Andrea about engine horsepower. We’re also going to help Steve remove his spark plugs. Let’s jump in.

Question: I used to drive a 1998 Ford Taurus with a 6-cylinder engine. A month ago, I got into an accident and the insurance company totaled it. So, I’m shopping for another car and have my eyes set on a 2008 Honda Civic. It only has 4 cylinders, but the salesman at the dealership said it will put out as much power as the older 6-cylinder engines. Is that true? I’ve been looking for horsepower numbers online to compare, but I can’t find them.

Answer: Thanks for sending your question in, Andrea. There’s a good chance the 4-cylinder Civic engine will perform at least as well as your old Taurus. The reason is due to the design. Newer engines perform more efficiently because they’re designed with more advanced technology. Not only is it likely to deliver just as much power (if not more), but it will do so with better fuel economy.

Question: I drive a 1999 Nissan Maxima with 127,000 miles on the engine. Back when it had 60,000 miles, I swapped out the spark plugs (the car was misfiring). The thing is, I had a hard time getting the old plugs out. It might have been because of carbon deposits that had accumulated over the years. Here’s my problem. My car is riding a little rough and I have a feeling it’s the plugs again. If they’re hard to take out, what would you recommend? Is there anything I can do to avoid damaging the threads?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Steve. The problem you described is common. Whether or not the culprit is carbon build-up is a mystery since I’m not there to personally check under the hood. When you replace your spark plugs, try unscrewing each of them one-fourth of a turn and then spray oil down into the threads. That should loosen the plugs up. If the threads are already damaged, you should be able to buy a repair kit at your local auto supply store.

That is for today’s installment. Thanks again to Andrea and Steve for writing in with their questions. Judging from the list of questions that are coming up in the near future, we’ll be taking a look at exhaust manifolds, head gaskets, oil pumps, and plenty more. Until next time, drive safely.

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Q & A #37 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #37 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. Last time, we helped a reader named Jonathan figure out why his Honda Element wouldn’t start (it turned out to be a faulty ignition switch). We also answered Elaine’s question regarding how often she should change her car’s air filter.

In today’s segment, I’m going to answer a question that I received from a reader named Jack. His question addresses something I feel very strongly about. It’s important to revisit this topic. We’re also going to help Louis with his car’s leaking brakes. Let’s get started.

Question: I drive a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero with the mileage at 107,500. It has been giving me problems, so I took it into the shop last Wednesday. The mechanic said I need a new water pump. There’s a salvage yard located about ten minutes from my house where I can get a used water pump for cheap, but the mechanic warned me against it. Now, I know he makes money by marking up parts. Is he just trying to get me to buy from his shop or should I really avoid getting the water pump at the salvage yard?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Jack. I don’t know your mechanic, so it’s impossible for me to know what his motivations are. That said, I can tell you that I agree with him… to a point. You’ll save plenty of money by purchasing used auto parts from the salvage yard (up to 50%). The problem is that you won’t know what you’re buying. If you need a bumper, radio knob, or headlight, a salvage yard is fine. But, a water pump is one of those components that can hide defects. It won’t do you any good to save 50% if the part is bad. I always recommend buying an OEM replacement part.

Question: I own a 1998 Mazda Protege with 150,000 miles on it. I bought it used several years ago and it has behaved surprisingly well (I keep it well-maintained). I’m writing because my front passenger-side brake is leaking fluid and it’s not working as well as it should. What are my options (the lower the cost, the better)? I haven’t gone to the repair shop yet.

Answer: I appreciate your email, Louis. Your options depend on the nature of the leak. Here’s what I suggest: remove the front passenger tire and take a look at the brake to find the leak’s source. Look closely at the pads. If they’re wet with fluid, you’ll need to replace them. Unless there’s another reason your brakes are not working properly, plugging the leak and having the pads replaced (if necessary) should resolve the problem. By the way, I would also bleed the air while you’re at it.

That’s it for this installment. I’d like to thank Jack and Louis again for their questions. Jack’s question, in particular, strikes a chord with me. I’ve seen countless instances in which people buy used or rebuilt auto parts that fail long before they should. For the important components, like alternators, catalytic converters, and anti-lock brakes, buy OEM replacements. In my opinion, it’s better to spend a few extra dollars for the peace of mind. Until next time, drive safely.

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