Q & A #41 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #41 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. Recently, I drove past a few car dealerships in my area and noticed that the lots were practically empty. That reminded me of the “Cash For Clunkers” deal that was launched earlier in the year. A lot of folks who were driving older vehicles that were still running well traded them in for newer models. That’s disheartening because I’ve heard that a lot of good vehicles were destroyed. They may have needed a few parts, but they still had a lot of life in them.

For those of you who kept your “clunkers,” the information in the Auto Specialist is more important than ever. Your vehicle is getting older and is bound to experience failing parts and systems. Knowing the root causes will go a long way toward fixing the problem.

Today, we’re going to help a reader named Elaine identify whether her brakes need to be replaced. We’ll also answer David’s question about replacing the engine in his Toyota 4Runner. Let’s jump right in.

Question: I own a 2000 Isuzu Rodeo with 122,400 miles. My car has never given me any problems because I keep it in good condition. I’m diligent about changing the air filter and oil filter, and I have the oil changed every 5,000 miles. Recently, I’ve started to worry about the brakes. I’m hearing a squeal whenever I press the brake pedal and I’m wondering whether they’re going bad. Up until a few years ago, my husband took care of most of the maintenance. So, if the brakes have ever gone bad in the past, he probably had them fixed. Does a squealing noise mean my brakes are going to give out?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Elaine. First, squealing brakes do not pose an immediate danger. They’re not going to suddenly give out. That said, you should take your Rodeo to a mechanic to have him check the pads. If they’re worn, have them replaced. Waiting too long can lead to a damaged rotor, which will cost more to repair.

Even though you didn’t mention it, if you hear a grinding sound, that usually means the pads are almost completely worn. It’s a bad sign and deserves immediate attention from your mechanic.

Question: I’ve had my 1995 Toyota 4Runner since I bought it new. It has just over 187,000 miles. My wife really likes the truck (I do, too), so I don’t want to get rid of it. But, I want more horsepower, so I was thinking of swapping the engine out. It has a standard V-6 and I’d like to put a V-8 into it. Is a swap pretty easy to do?

Answer: Thanks for your question, David. Frankly, I wouldn’t recommend swapping the engine. There’s a lot of effort involved because everything under the hood is designed to work with your current V-6. It is possible to swap it out and drop a V-8 inside. But, there’s no telling whether it will be reliable or if it will even pass the smog test in your state. My suggestion is to either rebuild your V-6 or buy another vehicle.

That’s it for today’s segment. Thanks again to Elaine and David for writing in with their questions. Join me for the next installment of the Auto Specialist when we answer a question from Henry regarding when to change his transmission fluid. We’ll also help Brad figure out his engine’s cranking problem. Until next time, drive safely.

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Q & A #40 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #40 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. We’ve been dedicating time with this regular column to answer readers’ questions about the problems they’re having with their vehicles. If you’re experiencing any issues with your car, truck, or SUV, there’s a good chance we’ve already covered it. I’d like to encourage you to take a look through our growing library of archives. If you don’t find what you’re looking for, please feel free to send your question in and we’ll all learn from it.

Last time, we helped Charlotte decide whether she should save a few dollars with a rebuilt alternator or invest in an OEM unit. We also answered a question from Brian regarding his engine’s spark knock. Today, I’ll answer a question from a reader named Jason regarding how auto repair shops fix their rates. We’ll also help Ryan with his car’s fuel pump. Let’s get started.

Question: I own a 2000 Honda Accord with a little over 110,000 miles. Over the last couple of years, I’ve had to have a few repair jobs done. The timing belt broke, someone stole my catalytic converter, and something caused the water pump to act up. Now, something’s wrong with my charging system. Here’s the thing. I’ve always wondered how the mechanics set their rates. I was talking with a buddy about it. His timing belt snapped last year. But, the shop he took his truck to charged him a lot less money to put a replacement on. Do you know how the prices are set?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Jason. Every repair garage has their own hourly rate. I’ve seen them as low as $40 (though it has been awhile) and up to $85. Most shops have a number of manuals that show how long a particular job will take for a given make and model. The mechanics will multiply their hourly rate by the number of hours the job should take. Then, they might pad the number a little in case the work takes longer than expected.

With regard to your friend’s timing belt costing less to replace than your own, this can be due to a number of factors. It might be due to his truck’s make and model, the experience and speed of the mechanics, or their hourly rate. Hope that helps to clarify the issue.

Question: I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant with the mileage at 113,000. A couple weeks ago, I had the fuel pump replaced. I know you’ve said in the past that some parts should only be replaced with their OEM counterparts, but I wanted to save money. I had the mechanic put a rebuilt pump in. Ever since, my car backfires at high rpms. I’ve taken it back to the garage, but the mechanic can’t find the problem. Do you know what’s causing the backfire?

Answer: Thank you for your question, Ryan. If I had to guess, I’d say the rebuilt is defective. Here’s what I’d do: go back to the mechanic and have him swap out the rebuilt for an OEM fuel pump. It will cost you a little more money, but I’d be willing to bet that it resolves the problem. Like alternators, fuel pumps are too important to trust to a rebuilt or remanufactured replacement.

That’s it for today’s segment. Thanks again to Jason and Ryan for sending in their questions. Ryan’s question is a great reminder. I cannot stress enough the importance of using OEM auto parts when you need to replace something. Knowing that you’re buying a component that is designed to spec is well worth the investment. Until next time, drive safely.

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