Q & A #48 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #48 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for today’s segment of the Auto Specialist. This past weekend, I was speaking with a friend of mine who works in the service bay of a large dealership. He told me that he is constantly surprised by how little people seem to know about their vehicles. He has explained compression tests, problems with spark plugs, and routine maintenance items only to receive a blank stare from many of his customers.

If you have been reading this regular column, you know that I stress learning about your car and the parts that keep it operating properly. The more you know, the better prepared you’ll be when parts need to be repaired or replaced.

With that said, let’s jump into today’s installment. Last time, we answered a question from Allen about his car’s misfire. We also explained an engine leakdown test for Marla. Today, we’ll help Brad with his vehicle’s oxygen sensor and Jason with his car’s brake pads and rotors.

Question: I have a 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer and it has 82,000 miles on it. I was having some work done on my car’s engine a few days ago (routine stuff like changing the spark plugs). The mechanic on duty mentioned that one of my oxygen sensors seems to be on the fritz. He offered to fix it, but I’m a little low on cash at the moment. Am I able to drive with a bad oxygen sensor? Will my Lancer suddenly die on me if I do?

Answer: Thanks for the question, Brad. It’s very unlikely that your engine will die on you as the result of not having the oxygen sensor fixed. That said, it’s important to understand what the sensor does. It measures the mix of air and fuel that enters each cylinder’s combustion chamber. The sensors then relay that data back to your vehicle’s computer. The computer makes adjustments to the amount of fuel in the mix based on several factors, including driving conditions.

If you don’t have the failing oxygen sensor replaced, your engine may start to experience problems. For example, you may notice a rough idle or hesitation if the air-fuel mixture leans out. Eventually, the bad air-fuel mix can even cause damage to your car’s catalytic converter. I recommend that you have the sensor replaced as soon as you’re able.

Question: I’m driving a 2002 Oldsmobile Aurora with almost 80,000 miles. A few weeks back, I took my car in for a brake job. Even though the brake shop I took it to was having a special, I ended paying more because they said they needed to thin the rotors. Ever since, I’ve been hearing a persistent “tweeting” sound when I drive. Plus, when I drive slowly, I can hear some sort of rubbing sound in my brakes. Were my brake pads installed poorly? Is that why I’m hearing the tweet and rubbing sound?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Jason. First, if I had to guess (and this is only a guess), I’d say the brake pads that were installed are not OEM pads. That may be contributing to the “tweeting” and rubbing sounds. I also suspect that the mechanic machined your rotors too thin. It’s impossible for me to say for certain, but I would definitely have the repair shop take another look at your rotors.

That’s it for today’s installment. Thanks again to Brad and Jason for sharing their car problems with us. Next time, we’ll have a new batch of automotive questions to address. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #47 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #47 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. Over the past several months, I’ve been answering readers’ questions about the car problems they’re experiencing. During that time, we’ve addressed issues related to engines, transmissions, alternators, and nearly every other component under the hood. The purpose of doing so is to demystify your vehicle. That way, you’ll know what your mechanic is saying as he recommends solutions. Even better, you might be encouraged to perform a few minor repairs and replace parts on your own. Doing so may be simpler than you think.

In the last segment, we helped Todd figure out a problem with his Infinity’s timing belt. We also helped Erin understand what the white material on her Accord’s battery was. Today, I’ll answer a question from Allen regarding his Concorde’s misfire and explain a leakdown test to Marla. Let’s jump right in.

Question: I own a 1999 Chrysler Concorde with 136,000 miles. For the past couple of months, my car has been misfiring. It happens sporadically and I’m not sure what’s causing it. When it first started occurring, it was only during acceleration on the highway. But, now it happens in different circumstances. Any idea what the problem is?

Answer: Thank you for your question, Allen. Misfires can happen for a lot of different reasons. One of the most common is a vacuum leak. Besides a misfire, you might also notice rough idling, stalling, and hesitation. You can check for leaks by using a bottle of propane gas and a rubber hose. Attach the hose to the gas valve and while keeping the valve open, place the other end near areas where you think there may be a leak. You’ll see the propane being siphoned in.

Aside from a vacuum leak, the misfire might be due to bad spark plugs, a failing EGR valve, a malfunctioning ignition coil, and even clogged fuel injectors. My suggestion? Have your mechanic run diagnostic and compression tests.

Question: I’m driving a 2002 Honda Odyssey and the odometer is at 81,250. Last week, I took my van into the dealership for a routine check-up. The technician said that I should have a leakdown test done. He tried to explain what it was, but I feel clueless. What is a leakdown test and why it is done?

Answer: Thanks for taking the time to write in, Marla. Here’s a brief explanation. Your engine has cylinders. Each cylinder has a piston that compresses air and fuel within a combustion chamber. A spark plug ignites the compressed mix, which generates the energy needed for propulsion. A leakdown test measures how much pressure loss there is from a given cylinder. If the loss of pressure is over 30%, that means your engine is not operating properly. Hope that clarifies what the mechanic was trying to explain.

That wraps up today’s segment. I’d like to thank both Allen and Marla for taking the time to send in their questions. If you’re experiencing a problem with your vehicle and your mechanic isn’t providing adequate answers, feel free to send your questions in. In the next installment, we’ll answer Brad’s question about his Lancer’s oxygen sensor and help Jason figure out what’s wrong with his Aurora’s brake pads and rotors. Until next time, drive safely.

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Q & A #46 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #46 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for today’s segment of the Auto Specialist. If you’re new to this column, please feel free to explore the archives. Over the last several months, we’ve managed to compile a fantastic library of car-related knowledge. There are questions from readers about alternators, engine problems, transmission issues, and dozens of other parts. Regardless of the type of problem you’re experiencing, there’s a good chance that you’ll find it addressed in previous installments.

Last time, we helped Josh figure out why his Infiniti’s engine refused to turn over. We also helped Marlene understand why her PT Cruiser’s head gasket kept failing. Today, we’ll answer a question from Todd regarding his Mirage’s timing belt and help Erin with her Accord’s battery. Let’s get started.

Question: I drive a 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage. The odometer is at 98,400. I have a question about my timing belt. When I pop the hood on my car and start the engine, I can see the belt, but it’s not moving. It hasn’t snapped and there’s plenty of tension on it. I just can’t figure out why it’s sitting there. Do I need to have it replaced? And also, is there a chance that the belt damaged something when it stopped moving?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Todd. My guess is that the teeth on the belt (on its underside) have been shorn off. To answer your first question, you’ll need to have it replaced. As to whether it caused damage, the only way to know for sure is to have a mechanic take a look. There’s a chance that the timing belt bent one of the valves when it failed. If that’s the case, it will impact the compression level within your engine. Your mechanic will be able to test whether that has happened.

Question: I own a 1997 Honda Accord with a little over 152,000 miles. My battery always seems to accumulate an off-white substance around the poles. It has happened with previous batteries and it’s happening with the current one. The problem is that it always causes my car to have trouble starting and even when it does start, I hear a crumbling noise. What is that white material? Is something in the electrical system causing it?

Answer: Thank you for your question, Erin. The white substance you’re seeing is corrosion. Don’t be alarmed. It happens with all vehicles. Unfortunately, it can accumulate to the point that it effects the connection between the terminals and the clamps. That’s probably why you’re having difficulty turning the engine over.

Here’s what I suggest: disconnect your battery and remove it from its carriage. Then, pour a soft drink over the terminals. That will neutralize the corrosion. Use a wire battery cleaner (you can buy one for under $10 at an auto supply store) to clean the terminals and clamps. Rinse the battery down, reconnect it, and start your engine. You should find that it starts easily. If you’re still having trouble turning the engine over, the problem may be a bad starter. But, try cleaning the battery first.

That wraps up another installment of the Auto Specialist. Thanks again to Todd and Erin for sending their questions in for the rest of us to learn from. We have a lot of great questions coming up in the queue, so be sure to come back for those. Until next time, drive safely.

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