Q & A #24 With The Auto Specialist
Q & A #24 With The Auto Specialist
One of the most interesting trends I’ve noticed lately is that a growing number of people are keeping their older vehicles on the road rather than buying new ones. Older cars translates into older parts. And that means a greater likelihood of getting stranded as the result of a component failure.
I started this column to help people figure out why certain parts fail. Even though I can’t physically run diagnostic tests on your car, there are always clues to the factors that are causing the problem. In this segment, we’re going to help a reader understand why his SUV’s charging system seems to be failing. We’re also going to take a look at another reader’s anti-lock brakes. Let’s get started.
Question: I’m driving a 2000 Ford Explorer with 107,000 miles. It has always handled well and has never given me any major problems. Until now. For whatever reason, it will intermittently fail to start. Sometimes, the engine cranks perfectly and other times, there’s no sign of life at all. At first, I thought the problem was due to my not driving it for a couple of days in a row. But, it’s happened after just letting it sit overnight.
I should mention that the guys at my dealer can’t find anything wrong. They claim they’ve run all the tests on my Explorer’s charging system and haven’t been able to find a problem. Well, there’s obviously a problem because it won’t start. What do you think?
Answer: Thanks for writing, Allen. Assuming the technicians at your dealership have gone through the normal diagnostics, I’m thinking the problem is the battery. It sounds like it’s simply not holding the charge. If you have the tools available, try to load test it. Just keep in mind that a load test won’t uncover a short inside the battery. But, if it fails the test, at least you know that you’ll need to replace it.
Question: I bought a 2005 Honda Accord last year and love it. There’s a little under 53,000 miles on it. My question has to do with the anti-lock brake indicator light on my dash. It went on a few weeks ago, but I haven’t noticed any difference in how my brakes work. Just to be safe, I took my car to the Honda dealer to see whether they would tell me if something was wrong. They said my ABS system was malfunctioning and it would cost $1,500 to fix it.
I want to make sure my car is safe to drive, but I can’t afford $1,500. And like I said, the brakes seem to work great. Can I just disengage the anti-lock part of my brakes and do without the $1,500 job? What are my options?
Answer: Thanks for your question, Tony. First, don’t “disengage” your anti-lock system. It’s there for a reason and disengaging it removes one of the best ways to avoid a collision. That said, you didn’t mention what the technicians at the Honda dealership suggested replacing. The fact is, your Accord’s ABS is made up of a number of components. Some cost far more than others. Is $1,500 a reasonable estimate? It depends upon what they’re actually fixing.
I would suggest taking your car back to the dealership and asking them to clarify what they intend to fix or replace. Then, write back to me and we’ll explore it further.
Thanks to both Allen and Tony for your questions. Chances are, other readers will get plenty of value just from having read them. We’re building a small backlog of great questions from those of you who have written in. In upcoming segments, we’ll be looking at problems involving vacuum leaks, suspension issues, timing belts, fuel pumps, and more. Until then, drive safely.
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Tags: Car Q & A, Car Q and A, Car Questions
