Q & A #49 With The Auto Specialist
Q & A #49 With The Auto Specialist
Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. Last Friday, I was reading a report about the recent Toyota recall that affected over 4 million vehicles. That recall was due to the floor mat getting stuck under the gas pedal and causing an acceleration problem. It’s a good reminder that regardless of how complex vehicles become, there are always potential problems lurking beneath the hood – or, in this case, under the gas pedal.
As you know, this regular column is to help readers figure out what is causing the problems they’re experiencing with their cars. Last time, we helped Brad understand what his Lancer’s oxygen sensor does. We also helped Jason figure out what was causing a chirping noise from his Aurora’s braking system. Today, we’re going to help Lindsay with her Sonata’s ignition system and a reader named Jon with his Eclipse’s no-start problem. Let’s jump in.
Question: My car is a 2001 Hyundai Sonata. The odometer is at 101,400. A couple of days ago, I was driving home from work and my car stalled out on me. I had it towed to a nearby garage and the mechanic told me the problem was a bad ignition coil. I had him replace it, but it didn’t fix the problem. My car’s engine still won’t start when it’s cold. It will if it’s warm, but even then, it stalls out.
I called the mechanic at the shop that replaced the ignition coil and he told me that it sounds like the ECM is bad. He said replacing it will cost another $600. Does that sound right to you?
Answer: Thanks for writing, Lindsay. If the mechanic replaced your ignition coil and you’re still having a problem starting your car, I suggest replacing the spark plugs (use OEM replacements). Regarding the ECM, that’s hard to tell. Because it’s expensive to replace (it is plausible that your mechanic might charge $600), I’d start with the spark plugs.
Question: I have a 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse and the mileage is just over 200,000. I’m having trouble starting it. When I turn the key, I hear a clicking sound, but the engine doesn’t crank. Any idea what might be causing the issue?
Answer: Thanks for your question, Jon. This is a tough one because I’m not there to personally test the system. Here’s what I would do:
First, clean the poles and connecting cables on your battery. Second, load test it. If the battery tests fine, turn your key to your start position and test whether 12 volts are making it to your starter solenoid. If the voltage is traveling fine, check the ignition switch and the starter (in that order). Diagnosing the clicking sound is difficult since the problem could be caused by several factors. But, if you follow the steps I’ve described, you’re likely to narrow down the culprit.
That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. I’d like to express my thanks to Lindsay and Jon for sharing their questions with us. I’d also like to remind you that if you’re experiencing any problems with your vehicle that you’re unable to diagnose, feel free to send your questions in. It may take awhile before I can address it, but we’ll add it to our growing library of automotive knowledge.
Be sure to join me for the next segment in which we’ll explain an engine leak down test to Dennis and help David with his car’s battery. Until then, drive safely.
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Tags: Car Q & A, Car Q and A, Q and A
