Q & A #54 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Thanks for joining me again for the latest segment of the Auto Specialist. Last week, I had mentioned reading up on Toyota’s accelerator pedal problem. The publicity uproar has since died down a bit and I’m sure the company is happy to be out of the limelight (for now). From what I’ve read, repairs will be completed on all dealer inventories by late February. Meanwhile, Toyota is preparing to offer new customers longer warranties and better incentives in a bid to quell their concerns and win public support. Time will tell whether it works.

Today, we have a full schedule with three new automotive problems to diagnose. We’ll help Tom figure out why his Diamante’s engine is losing oil pressure. We’ll also help troubleshoot Julie’s misfire problem before turning our attention to Jonathan’s fuel injectors.

Let’s get started.

Question: I have a 1997 Mitsubishi Diamante with 142,000 miles on it. My engine has been acting up lately and the oil pressure warning light came on my dash a few days ago. I haven’t had a chance to take it into the shop yet, but I’ve been hearing some odd noises under the hood while driving. Do you have any idea why my car is losing pressure? And how long do I have before the loss of pressure causes major problems? I’ve been looking through your archives for the answer, but haven’t stumbled across it yet. Any advice you can give me would be appreciated.

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Tom. A loss in oil pressure can be caused by one of several things. The most common culprit I’ve seen are worn rod bearings in the engine. They can wear down over time, which widens the space between them and the crankshaft journals. When that space grows wider, you’ll lose pressure.

The problem can also involve the gears inside the housing of your oil pump, your pressure release valve, or a blocked oil filter. It’s impossible to tell which component is causing the pressure drop without doing some tests. Regarding your second question, have the problem checked by a mechanic as soon as you can. Don’t wait or your engine can become damaged.

Question: I drive a 2001 Nissan Altima with 115,600 miles. Since last December, my car has been missing when I accelerate. When I first noticed the problem, it only happened occasionally so I didn’t think much about it. But, over the past couple of months, the engine has been missing more frequently. It’s now doing it on surface streets (it used to only do it when I was getting on the freeway). Can you tell me why my car is having this problem? Thanks.

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Julie. Without taking a look under the hood, it’s difficult for me to tell what is causing the misfire. Here’s what I suggest. Take your Altima to your mechanic and ask him to pull any codes from the computer. If there are no codes, replace the spark plugs, filters (fuel and air), and oxygen sensor. There’s a good chance that will solve the problem. If it doesn’t, let me know.

Question: I’m driving a 2003 Honda Civic with just over 97,000 miles. I just got back from the dealership and they told me three of my fuel injectors are blocked up. They offered to replace the entire set of four, of course, but it’s expensive. So, I wanted to run this by you. Do fuel injectors usually go out this early?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Jonathan. Yes, fuel injectors can definitely become clogged by 97,000 miles. In fact, they usually fail sooner (around 80,000 miles), so you can consider yourself lucky to have gotten this far without replacing them. Incidentally, one of the factors that causes them to clog prematurely is cheap gasoline. Low-cost fuels usually lack the detergents necessary to prevent olefins from clogging the nozzle.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to thank Tom, Julie, and Jonathan for letting us help them solve their car issues. Join me next time when we dig into a new batch. I’ve seen the queue and we have some interesting automotive problems coming up. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #53 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #53 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been watching, fascinated by the manner in which the Toyota recall has been developing. If you’re unfamiliar with the situation, it began with a few sporadic reports about a malfunctioning accelerator pedal. Fast forward to today. Toyota has been forced to recall millions of vehicles about this problem. It apparently affects several models, including the Prius.

While a lot of people seem to think Toyota won’t be able to recover from this, I’m betting they will. If anything, this situation will encourage the company to design their vehicles with even better parts and systems in the future.

In today’s segment, we’re going to help Saul figure out whether the valve job recommended by his mechanic is reasonably priced. We’ll also help Andrea understand what her “check engine” light is telling her. Finally, we’ll help Jim with his failing fuel pump.

Let’s jump in.

Question: I drive a 1998 Infiniti I30 with about 150,000 miles. Last Monday, on the way home from work, my car died on me while I was on the freeway. I had it towed to my mechanic so he could take a look and figure out the problem. He told me two of my valves were bent and quoted the repair work at $800.

I’ve been going to this guy for a long time, so I trust him. But, I was surprised to hear the work was so expensive. It’s just a couple of valves. Does that sound right to you?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Saul. Valve jobs can definitely cost $800, especially on an Infiniti. In fact, this type of work can potentially cost thousands of dollars. The deciding factors are what caused the problem and how much damage was actually done. For example, a timing belt that slips or breaks will often cause valve damage. But, it can also cause a crack in the cylinder head. If your mechanic is only repairing two valves, I can certainly understand the bill.

Question: I own a 2001 Honda Accord with just over 127,000 miles on it. A couple of months ago, my check engine light went on. I don’t know what that light is supposed to be telling me. I meant to take my car into the shop when I first saw the light go on, but got really busy with other things. Can you tell me what that light means?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Andrea. The check engine light is meant to alert you to potential problems. When it is tripped, a fault code is set and stored in your vehicle’s computer. The fault code can be pulled with a special diagnostic scanner and used to figure out the issue. It’s impossible to know what the problem is without that code. I recommend that you take your car immediately to the nearest repair facility and have a mechanic pull the code. That will reveal how serious the problem is.

Question: I’m driving a 2000 Ford Explorer Sport with 143,500 miles. I’m frustrated because I’ve gone through two fuel pumps in less than a month. The guy at the repair shop says that my gas tank now has pieces of the last fuel pump inside. Now, he’s telling me that the tank needs to be replaced. What is happening with my Explorer? I’ve searched online, but nobody with my make and model seems to be dealing with this problem.

Answer: Thank you for writing, Jim. From your description of the debris in your gas tank, I’m guessing the problem is the quality of the fuel pumps you’ve had installed. I’m going to speculate that you’re not using OEM-certified pumps. If you’re using a cheap rebuilt, there’s a chance it’s not holding pressure effectively.

Here’s what I would do: tell your mechanic to replace the fuel pump with an OEM-certified pump. If he’s unable to clear out the debris from the tank, you’ll need to replace that, too.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. Thanks again to Saul, Andrea, and Jim for sending in their questions. Join me next time when we help a few more readers with their automotive troubles. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #52 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #52 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for today’s segment of the Auto Specialist. Earlier, I read that Toyota is making plans to double the global output of hybrid vehicles to over 1 million by 2011. Toyota and Honda continue to battle for the frontrunner position on low-emissions cars. To say the least, it will be interesting to see how this battle plays out. Plus, given the components that are installed in today’s vehicles to lower emissions (i.e. catalytic converters, oxygen sensors, etc.), it will be interesting to see how those evolve.

In the last segment, we helped three readers with their car problems. Tom was having an issue with his alternator; Brian was dealing with a coolant leak into his engine’s cylinders; and Dawn was coping with the bad news following her car’s spark knock. Today, we have a good batch of three new questions.

Let’s get started.

Question: I have a 2002 Ford Explorer with about 103,000 miles on it. Last week, I was driving home from work and my timing belt broke. It didn’t just slip a notch. It actually snapped. Unfortunately, when it broke, it did some damage to my engine. My mechanic said a couple of pistons are broken and the intake and exhaust valves are bent.

The worst thing about it is that my mechanic had told me to replace the belt a couple of years ago. I didn’t take his suggestion seriously because I figured he was just trying to pad his bill. Can you explain why the belt caused so much damage?

Answer: Thanks for writing, David. Your timing belt goes around the crankshaft, camshaft, and water pump, and helps to control the timing of the intake and exhaust valves. If everything is working properly, the valves will open and close in perfect sync with each piston’s rising and falling within the individual cylinders. When the belt breaks, everything goes wrong.

With “interference” engines, there’s very little margin for error. So, when the belt snaps, the pistons hit the valves and damage them.

On a side note, learn to trust your mechanic as long as his suggestions are consistent with your owner’s manual. 103,000 miles is at the top end for the life of a timing belt. You were definitely playing with fire.

Question: I drive a 2000 Honda Accord with 131,800 miles. There’s nothing wrong with my car yet. It has always driven smoothly and never given me any problems. However, because it’s getting old, I know that parts are going to start failing sooner or later. My mechanic suggested that I use rebuilt parts when the time comes to replace things. Would you make the same recommendation?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Leslie. Be careful with rebuilt parts. Their quality and durability have a lot to do with the workmanship of the rebuilder. And that can go both ways. I’ve seen rebuilts that I half-expected to fail within a month. I’ve also seen rebuilts that were built so well, I’d trust them as much as a new OEM replacement.

If you’re going to use rebuilts, ask the mechanic whether they’re OEM-certified and if they come with a warranty. I’d avoid any replacements (for major parts) that came with less than a 2-year warranty.

Question: I own a 2001 Hyundai Sonata with a little over 97,000 miles. I was at my local repair garage a few days ago getting the oil changed. The mechanic comes over and shows me the cap from my radiator. There was this thick, brownish sludge in it. He said the stuff was in my radiator and probably in the coolant system, too. Any idea what caused the sludge to form? Is there any reason for me to be concerned?

Answer: Thanks for sending your question in, Stephen. I’ve seen the type of sludge you’re describing. In my experience, it is caused by stagnant coolant throughout the cooling system. You should be changing the coolant every few years to keep it fresh. I’m going to guess that you haven’t done so. I suggest that you replace the coolant as soon as possible.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to extend my thanks again to David, Leslie, and Stephen for sending in their questions and letting us diagnose their car problems. Next time, I’ll have a new batch of interesting automotive problems from readers to diagnose. Be sure to come back for that. Until then, drive safely.

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