Q & A #51 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #51 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. Recently, I came across a news item about the Ford Motor Company that I found interesting. The New York Times reported that one of their key executives, Alan R. Mulally, had created a plan to take Ford back to the top of the auto industry. Few would argue that the company has a long way to go. But, it was Mulally’s plan that caught my attention.

At a press conference for the 2010 Detroit Auto Show, he unveiled the vehicle that would pave the way for Ford to reclaim their dominance. That vehicle? The Ford Focus. That’s a far cry from the muscle cars on which the company once staked their claim. If you own a Focus, you know firsthand they’re no fun to work on.

Let’s get to today’s segment. We’re going to help Tom with his Infiniti’s alternator. We’re also going to give Brian a hand diagnosing a bad head gasket. Finally, we’ll give Dawn the bad news about the blue smoke coming from her exhaust pipe. Let’s jump in.

Question: I’m driving a 2000 Infiniti QX4 with 114,000 miles. About a month ago, I noticed the battery light came on the dash. There’s a small repair garage by my house, so I had the mechanics run some tests. The problem turned out to be the alternator. So far, so good. I had the shop replace the alternator and things were fine for awhile. Well, last Tuesday, the battery light popped on again. I went back to the same shop and had them take another look. They can’t find any faults for the battery light and said it’s probably the alternator again.

I don’t know much about cars, but why would the first replacement alternator go out so quickly? Any ideas?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Tom. I’ll bet the alternator that the mechanic put in the first time was a budget model. This is something that happens a lot. Mechanics will often recommend a used component in order to save a little money. The problem is, a lot of used parts are unstable. They fail quickly. If you’re going to use them, make sure they’re OEM certified.

By the way, if the problem is not the alternator (and I’m assuming it is), then ask the mechanic to check the powertrain control module.

Question: I own a 2003 Honda Accord with around 81,000 miles. Over the last few weeks, my car has been having trouble accelerating. Once I get it to 65 mph, it runs fine. But, from takeoff up to about 40 mph, it keeps sputtering. Also, it idles really roughly when I’m stopped at red lights. The guy that does maintenance work on my car couldn’t find the problem. Do this sound familiar to you?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Brian. From what you described, it sounds like coolant is leaking into the cylinders. If the coolant gets into the combustion chamber, your car can start misfiring at lower speeds. You wouldn’t necessarily experience a misfire at higher speeds if the amount of coolant is small.

The trick is to find the leak. I’ll bet it’s the head gasket, so have your mechanic start there.

Question: I have a 1999 Acura Integra with 107,000 miles on it. Over the holidays, I was driving to my parents’ house when I suddenly lost power and saw blue smoke starting to pour out of my tailpipe. I had my Integra towed to an auto repair shop near my house. The mechanics checked it out and said that one of my pistons and its exhaust valve had holes in them. Can you explain to me what happened to my car?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Dawn. If your piston and the exhaust valve have holes in them, I’m going to guess the cause is related to spark knock. One of the root causes of spark knock (also called detonation) is an air-fuel mixture that is too lean. A lean mix throws off the combustion process. To start, I recommend checking your fuel injectors for clogs. You might also want to check the oxygen sensor.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. I’d like to thank Tom, Brian, and Dawn for sending in their questions. Be sure to come back for the next segment when we’ll go through a new batch of automotive problems. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #50 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #50 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for today’s installment of the Auto Specialist. Several weeks ago, I mentioned that I had driven past a few dealerships in my area and wasn’t surprised that the lots were empty. This was after the “Cash For Clunkers” deal had ended and a lot of folks expected sales of new vehicles to remain brisk. We now know that sales were destined to slump after the CFC deal had expired. That suggests there are millions of people driving older cars with components that will soon begin failing.

The goal of this column is to educate you about your car and the parts that are responsible for keeping it on the road. Eventually, you should be able to replace parts, such as your fuel pump, oil filter, and catalytic converter. You should also be able to troubleshoot minor problems with your engine and transmission. Today, we’re going to help Dennis understand what an engine leak down test is. We’re also going to help David with his Maxima’s battery. Let’s get started.

Question: I own a 2002 Ford Explorer with 89,000 miles. I took it to a local repair shop a couple of weeks ago to have them run a few tests. They said that my engine has a compression leak and that I should have a leak down test done. I told the mechanics to hold off for now. I’ve been through the archives of the Auto Specialist and can’t find anything about a leak down test. Could you explain what it is?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Dennis. An engine leak down test measures the loss of compression from your cylinders. All cylinders lose a little compression. But, if the loss climbs above 30%, your engine needs serious attention.

With the right tools, you can perform a leak down at home. Visit any auto supply store and pick up a leak down gauge. Then, remove your spark plugs and rotate your engine so that the target cylinder’s piston is at the top center of the combustion chamber. When it is, the intake and exhaust valves should be closed.

One end of the leak down gauge goes into the hole in which the cylinder’s spark plug rested. When you apply air pressure, the gauge will identify the percentage of compression leak. If the leak is significant, you’ll need to diagnose the root cause. That’s a matter of identifying where air is escaping. Hope that helps.

Question: I drive a 2000 Nissan Maxima and there’s 121,400 miles on it. Yesterday, I was stuck on the freeway because there had been an accident. I wasn’t involved in the accident, but it turned the freeway into a parking lot. Nobody could move an inch for over two hours. I kept my car on because it was cold and I wanted to listen to the radio. Eventually, my battery died. I got my car towed home and this morning a friend jump-started it for me. The battery seems fine. Did I do any damage to my car by letting it die like that?

Answer: Thank you for your question, David. In short, probably not. From what you have described, it sounds like you simply ran the battery down by keeping your car on without driving. Driving charges your battery. Now that your friend has provided a jump-start, it should be fine.

That wraps up another segment of the Auto Specialist. Thanks again to Dennis and David for sending in their questions. As always, we’ll have a new batch of car problems to help diagnose in the next installment. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #49 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #49 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. Last Friday, I was reading a report about the recent Toyota recall that affected over 4 million vehicles. That recall was due to the floor mat getting stuck under the gas pedal and causing an acceleration problem. It’s a good reminder that regardless of how complex vehicles become, there are always potential problems lurking beneath the hood – or, in this case, under the gas pedal.

As you know, this regular column is to help readers figure out what is causing the problems they’re experiencing with their cars. Last time, we helped Brad understand what his Lancer’s oxygen sensor does. We also helped Jason figure out what was causing a chirping noise from his Aurora’s braking system. Today, we’re going to help Lindsay with her Sonata’s ignition system and a reader named Jon with his Eclipse’s no-start problem. Let’s jump in.

Question: My car is a 2001 Hyundai Sonata. The odometer is at 101,400. A couple of days ago, I was driving home from work and my car stalled out on me. I had it towed to a nearby garage and the mechanic told me the problem was a bad ignition coil. I had him replace it, but it didn’t fix the problem. My car’s engine still won’t start when it’s cold. It will if it’s warm, but even then, it stalls out.

I called the mechanic at the shop that replaced the ignition coil and he told me that it sounds like the ECM is bad. He said replacing it will cost another $600. Does that sound right to you?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Lindsay. If the mechanic replaced your ignition coil and you’re still having a problem starting your car, I suggest replacing the spark plugs (use OEM replacements). Regarding the ECM, that’s hard to tell. Because it’s expensive to replace (it is plausible that your mechanic might charge $600), I’d start with the spark plugs.

Question: I have a 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse and the mileage is just over 200,000. I’m having trouble starting it. When I turn the key, I hear a clicking sound, but the engine doesn’t crank. Any idea what might be causing the issue?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Jon. This is a tough one because I’m not there to personally test the system. Here’s what I would do:

First, clean the poles and connecting cables on your battery. Second, load test it. If the battery tests fine, turn your key to your start position and test whether 12 volts are making it to your starter solenoid. If the voltage is traveling fine, check the ignition switch and the starter (in that order). Diagnosing the clicking sound is difficult since the problem could be caused by several factors. But, if you follow the steps I’ve described, you’re likely to narrow down the culprit.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. I’d like to express my thanks to Lindsay and Jon for sharing their questions with us. I’d also like to remind you that if you’re experiencing any problems with your vehicle that you’re unable to diagnose, feel free to send your questions in. It may take awhile before I can address it, but we’ll add it to our growing library of automotive knowledge.

Be sure to join me for the next segment in which we’ll explain an engine leak down test to Dennis and help David with his car’s battery. Until then, drive safely.

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