05 Nov

Q & A #40 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #40 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. We’ve been dedicating time with this regular column to answer readers’ questions about the problems they’re having with their vehicles. If you’re experiencing any issues with your car, truck, or SUV, there’s a good chance we’ve already covered it. I’d like to encourage you to take a look through our growing library of archives. If you don’t find what you’re looking for, please feel free to send your question in and we’ll all learn from it.

Last time, we helped Charlotte decide whether she should save a few dollars with a rebuilt alternator or invest in an OEM unit. We also answered a question from Brian regarding his engine’s spark knock. Today, I’ll answer a question from a reader named Jason regarding how auto repair shops fix their rates. We’ll also help Ryan with his car’s fuel pump. Let’s get started.

Question: I own a 2000 Honda Accord with a little over 110,000 miles. Over the last couple of years, I’ve had to have a few repair jobs done. The timing belt broke, someone stole my catalytic converter, and something caused the water pump to act up. Now, something’s wrong with my charging system. Here’s the thing. I’ve always wondered how the mechanics set their rates. I was talking with a buddy about it. His timing belt snapped last year. But, the shop he took his truck to charged him a lot less money to put a replacement on. Do you know how the prices are set?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Jason. Every repair garage has their own hourly rate. I’ve seen them as low as $40 (though it has been awhile) and up to $85. Most shops have a number of manuals that show how long a particular job will take for a given make and model. The mechanics will multiply their hourly rate by the number of hours the job should take. Then, they might pad the number a little in case the work takes longer than expected.

With regard to your friend’s timing belt costing less to replace than your own, this can be due to a number of factors. It might be due to his truck’s make and model, the experience and speed of the mechanics, or their hourly rate. Hope that helps to clarify the issue.

Question: I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant with the mileage at 113,000. A couple weeks ago, I had the fuel pump replaced. I know you’ve said in the past that some parts should only be replaced with their OEM counterparts, but I wanted to save money. I had the mechanic put a rebuilt pump in. Ever since, my car backfires at high rpms. I’ve taken it back to the garage, but the mechanic can’t find the problem. Do you know what’s causing the backfire?

Answer: Thank you for your question, Ryan. If I had to guess, I’d say the rebuilt is defective. Here’s what I’d do: go back to the mechanic and have him swap out the rebuilt for an OEM fuel pump. It will cost you a little more money, but I’d be willing to bet that it resolves the problem. Like alternators, fuel pumps are too important to trust to a rebuilt or remanufactured replacement.

That’s it for today’s segment. Thanks again to Jason and Ryan for sending in their questions. Ryan’s question is a great reminder. I cannot stress enough the importance of using OEM auto parts when you need to replace something. Knowing that you’re buying a component that is designed to spec is well worth the investment. Until next time, drive safely.

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23 Oct

Q & A #38 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #38 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. I’d like to start with a couple of quick reminders. First, if you’re unfamiliar with this column, I invite you to look through the archives. There’s a lot of automotive knowledge that has built up over the the past 37 installments. I use this column to respond to readers’ questions about problems they’re experiencing with their vehicles. Sometimes, the problems are easy to diagnose. Other times, they’re mysterious. There’s always an opportunity to learn something new.

Second, the goal is not to train you to become your own mechanic. By reading each installment of the Auto Specialist, you’ll eventually learn to perform small auto repair jobs yourself. But, that’s not the real goal. Instead, this column is simply for education. When the time comes to purchase new replacement parts, you’ll know exactly how they work.

Today, I’m going to address a question from Andrea about engine horsepower. We’re also going to help Steve remove his spark plugs. Let’s jump in.

Question: I used to drive a 1998 Ford Taurus with a 6-cylinder engine. A month ago, I got into an accident and the insurance company totaled it. So, I’m shopping for another car and have my eyes set on a 2008 Honda Civic. It only has 4 cylinders, but the salesman at the dealership said it will put out as much power as the older 6-cylinder engines. Is that true? I’ve been looking for horsepower numbers online to compare, but I can’t find them.

Answer: Thanks for sending your question in, Andrea. There’s a good chance the 4-cylinder Civic engine will perform at least as well as your old Taurus. The reason is due to the design. Newer engines perform more efficiently because they’re designed with more advanced technology. Not only is it likely to deliver just as much power (if not more), but it will do so with better fuel economy.

Question: I drive a 1999 Nissan Maxima with 127,000 miles on the engine. Back when it had 60,000 miles, I swapped out the spark plugs (the car was misfiring). The thing is, I had a hard time getting the old plugs out. It might have been because of carbon deposits that had accumulated over the years. Here’s my problem. My car is riding a little rough and I have a feeling it’s the plugs again. If they’re hard to take out, what would you recommend? Is there anything I can do to avoid damaging the threads?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Steve. The problem you described is common. Whether or not the culprit is carbon build-up is a mystery since I’m not there to personally check under the hood. When you replace your spark plugs, try unscrewing each of them one-fourth of a turn and then spray oil down into the threads. That should loosen the plugs up. If the threads are already damaged, you should be able to buy a repair kit at your local auto supply store.

That is for today’s installment. Thanks again to Andrea and Steve for writing in with their questions. Judging from the list of questions that are coming up in the near future, we’ll be taking a look at exhaust manifolds, head gaskets, oil pumps, and plenty more. Until next time, drive safely.

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13 Oct

Q & A #36 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #36 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. For those of you who have been reading this ongoing column from the beginning, I’d like to say thanks for letting me help solve your car-related challenges. I’d also like to encourage you to write in with any problem that you’re having with your vehicle. Include the make, model, and mileage, as well as a brief description of any symptoms you’re noticing. I’ll do my best to diagnose the root cause.

Today, we’re going help Jonathan identify the reason his Honda Element won’t start. We’ll also help Elaine with her question about air filters. Let’s get started.

Question: I bought a 2003 Honda Element late last year (from a private party). It has about 70,000 miles on the odometer. When I bought it, I took your advice and had a mechanic run a diagnostic on it. The car turned out clean and I haven’t had a problem until now. For some reason, it won’t start. I know the battery is fine because I just replaced it. Plus, my friend load-tested it to make sure it was good.

Here’s where I get confused. The power windows and power locks are working, but my radio won’t come on. When I turn the key in the ignition, the engine refuses to turn over. There’s no rapid click or any other sound. Nothing happens at all. Any idea why my car won’t start? Sorry if I’ve left anything important out.

Answer: Thanks for your email, Jonathan. From the details you provided, my guess is that the ignition switch is failing. You’ll need to have a mechanic replace it. If you have an extended warranty covering the part, have your dealership take care of it. Otherwise, plan to pay approximately $200 for the switch and labor.

Question: I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer with 57,719 miles. A few months back, I noticed that my car seemed to be lacking power. At first, I noticed the problem when getting onto the freeway. After some time, I started noticing it on regular city streets. I took the car into a local repair shop last week and had the guys there take a look. One of them ended up swapping out the air filter because it was so dirty. Now, when I drive, it feels great. So, when exactly do I need to change out my air filter? Is there a certain number of miles?

Answer: Thanks for writing Elaine. The frequency with which you change your air filter will depend on the conditions in which you’re driving. The filter’s job is to catch dirt, dust, and debris before it gets into your engine. Of course, if it’s doing its job, it will eventually become clogged. When that happens, it will restrict airflow into your engine, which is what causes the loss of power. The key is to change the filter before it gets to that point. If you drive in an area with a lot of dust and dirt, you’ll need to change it out more often than otherwise. My advice is to check it each time you have the oil changed.

That’s it for this installment. My thanks again to Jonathan and Elaine for sharing their questions with us. I have a long list of great questions that many of you have sent in. If you’re wondering why I haven’t answered yours yet, it’s because I’m dealing with a small the backlog. Until next time, drive safely.

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