Car Q & A #1 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Car Q and A

Car Q & A #1 With The Auto Specialist

From the emails I’ve been receiving, it’s clear that a lot of readers have similar questions about their vehicles and the problems they’re experiencing. I’ve decided to start an ongoing “Q & A” column that will address some of these questions. My hope is that we’ll build an expanding library of instantly-usable information about car parts, maintenance issues, automotive repair, and new technologies. You’ll be able to put this information to use in order to get the most out of your vehicle. Let’s get started.

Question: “My father insists that letting the engine idle for several minutes after starting a car is necessary for it to warm up. Other people say that’s not true. Can you clarify?”

Answer: That may have been true a long time ago (and by “long time,” I mean decades). Most vehicles used carburetors back then. Today, fuel injection is more popular. Unless you live in below freezing temperatures, you shouldn’t need to warm up the engine. The motor oil can circulate through the parts within 20 seconds, providing the necessary lubrication.

Unless your father is driving an old model, chances are, he’s merely wasting gas by letting the engine idle. One quick point, though: it’s a good idea to drive your car gently for the first few minutes after starting the engine.

Question: “Earlier today, I was driving and my car inexplicably died (I was stopped at a traffic light at the time). When I tried to start it again, all I heard was a fast clicking sound. After about 30 minutes, I tried again and the engine turned over. I was able to drive it, but the engine died again before I reached my house. What the heck is going on?”

Answer: It sounds like it’s the battery or the alternator. Here’s a good way to check: when the engine is dead, try to turn the headlights on. If nothing happens, that usually means the charge isn’t being delivered through the battery or alternator. One or the other is probably bad. If your headlights come on, the problem lies elsewhere.

When you were stopped at the traffic light (right before your car died), you might have noticed your vehicle struggling. If so, the problem may be with the speed sensor. Your best bet is to have your mechanic pop the hood and check.

In my next “Q & A” installment, we’ll take a look at 2 or 3 more car problems that confuse a lot of folks. In the future, we’ll also explore issues that are associated with particular makes and models. While it’s impossible for me to know for certain what is happening with your vehicle (without being able to look under the hood, of course), I can provide some helpful insight. We’ll pick this up again next time.

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Car Q & A #2 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Car Q and A

Car Q & A #2 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the “Q & A” Log. This is a new column that I’ve started in order to answer common car problems that you might be experiencing. The questions that I’m addressing in this ongoing segment come primarily from emails and conversations I’ve had with drivers. The same issues come up over and over. So, we’re going to be building a knowledge base that you can refer to over time. As I’ve mentioned in the past, the more you know about your vehicle and its parts, the better.

Question: I’m thinking about buying a used car. A couple of days ago, I found a guy who was selling his 2005 Jeep Cherokee. It has a little over 53,000 miles (about average for a vehicle that age). The problem is that when the engine is idling, I’m hearing a noise that I believe is coming from the fan belt. Is that a serious problem? Does the noise mean that something is wrong with the engine?

Answer: First, realize that fan belts can become less flexible over the years. If the fan belt in the Jeep Cherokee is the same one that was installed at the factory, it’s entirely possible that the rubber has hardened or developed small fissures.

Try this: start the engine and pop the hood. While the Cherokee is idling, spray the fan belt with a little WD-40. If the noise that you’re hearing goes away, you’re right. It’s the fan belt. A mechanic will probably charge about $150 for the belt and labor to replace it. If the noise doesn’t go away, it could be a bigger problem. For example, the alternator may be failing or the water pump may need to be replaced.

Question: Don’t ask me how I managed to do it (it’s a little embarrassing), but I added motor oil to my transmission. It wasn’t much, maybe a couple of ounces. The weight of the oil was 10W 40 (my car is a 4-cylinder Nissan Sentra). Now, I’m worried if I drive it, the oil will damage the transmission. What should I do? Do I need to get the transmission flushed?

Answer: Don’t worry. I won’t ask how you did it. Believe it or not, it happens often. The fact is, if you only added a couple of ounces, there’s no real danger of damaging the transmission. The oil will dilute. Had you added a couple of quarts, it would be a different story. Bottom line, your Sentra should be fine.

If you have specific questions about your vehicle, certain car parts, or problems with the various systems (brakes, charging system, etc.), feel free to contact me. I have a huge list of car problems that I’ve compiled over the years. So, I’ll be addressing those in upcoming installments. Until next time, drive safely.

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