07 Dec

Q & A #46 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #46 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for today’s segment of the Auto Specialist. If you’re new to this column, please feel free to explore the archives. Over the last several months, we’ve managed to compile a fantastic library of car-related knowledge. There are questions from readers about alternators, engine problems, transmission issues, and dozens of other parts. Regardless of the type of problem you’re experiencing, there’s a good chance that you’ll find it addressed in previous installments.

Last time, we helped Josh figure out why his Infiniti’s engine refused to turn over. We also helped Marlene understand why her PT Cruiser’s head gasket kept failing. Today, we’ll answer a question from Todd regarding his Mirage’s timing belt and help Erin with her Accord’s battery. Let’s get started.

Question: I drive a 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage. The odometer is at 98,400. I have a question about my timing belt. When I pop the hood on my car and start the engine, I can see the belt, but it’s not moving. It hasn’t snapped and there’s plenty of tension on it. I just can’t figure out why it’s sitting there. Do I need to have it replaced? And also, is there a chance that the belt damaged something when it stopped moving?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Todd. My guess is that the teeth on the belt (on its underside) have been shorn off. To answer your first question, you’ll need to have it replaced. As to whether it caused damage, the only way to know for sure is to have a mechanic take a look. There’s a chance that the timing belt bent one of the valves when it failed. If that’s the case, it will impact the compression level within your engine. Your mechanic will be able to test whether that has happened.

Question: I own a 1997 Honda Accord with a little over 152,000 miles. My battery always seems to accumulate an off-white substance around the poles. It has happened with previous batteries and it’s happening with the current one. The problem is that it always causes my car to have trouble starting and even when it does start, I hear a crumbling noise. What is that white material? Is something in the electrical system causing it?

Answer: Thank you for your question, Erin. The white substance you’re seeing is corrosion. Don’t be alarmed. It happens with all vehicles. Unfortunately, it can accumulate to the point that it effects the connection between the terminals and the clamps. That’s probably why you’re having difficulty turning the engine over.

Here’s what I suggest: disconnect your battery and remove it from its carriage. Then, pour a soft drink over the terminals. That will neutralize the corrosion. Use a wire battery cleaner (you can buy one for under $10 at an auto supply store) to clean the terminals and clamps. Rinse the battery down, reconnect it, and start your engine. You should find that it starts easily. If you’re still having trouble turning the engine over, the problem may be a bad starter. But, try cleaning the battery first.

That wraps up another installment of the Auto Specialist. Thanks again to Todd and Erin for sending their questions in for the rest of us to learn from. We have a lot of great questions coming up in the queue, so be sure to come back for those. Until next time, drive safely.

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20 Aug

Q & A #32 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #32 With The Auto Specialist

Before we get started with today’s segment of the Auto Specialist, I’d like to get something off my chest. For those of you who have been reading this column from the beginning, what I’m about to say won’t surprise you. Consider it a reminder. On the other hand, new readers need to hear this:

When you replace parts and components that have failed, you should be investing in OEM replacements. I have lost count of the number of times people have told me they have bought rebuilt parts that failed soon after driving away from the repair garage. OEM parts cost more, but they’re far more reliable. This is important and I’ll likely mention it again in the future.

With that out of the way, let’s dig into today’s car questions. Jonathan has written in to ask about a rotten smell coming from his Passat. We’ll also help Tony decide whether he should buy a used Accord without the maintenance paperwork.

Question: Love the column and hope you can help. I have a 2004 Volkswagen Passat with 68,500 miles on the odometer. Lately, I’ve noticed that when I’m cruising at highway speed (65 mph or above), my car puts out a rotten smell. It smells like I have bad eggs with me in the cabin. It’s embarrassing when friends are with me. Any idea what might be causing the problem? I wanted to check with you before taking my car to the dealership (they’d probably want to replace everything).

Answer: Thanks for writing, Jonathan. Because you’re smelling that odor at high speeds, I’m guessing the problem is the fuel and air mixture. When the mix is richer than it should be, it can produce an odor that smells like eggs that have turned bad. There’s a chance that your catalytic converter may have failed. However, before having it replaced (they’re expensive), ask a mechanic to check the fuel-air mix. If it’s too rich, correcting it should get rid of the smell.

Question: A couple days ago, I came across a 2000 Honda Accord that the owner is selling for a great price. It has 105,640 miles on it, looks clean, and I’m thinking about buying it. The problem is that the seller doesn’t have all of the maintenance records. He has some, but they’re spotty. So, I can’t tell if he’s gotten the oil changed regularly or when other items have been done. He claims that he has followed the service schedule in the owner’s manual to a “T,” but can’t prove it. Would you buy the car if you were in my position?

Answer: Thanks for your email, Tony. To your question, no. I wouldn’t buy the car. At least, I wouldn’t buy it with any expectations. The thing is, service records are incredibly easy to retrieve because they’re kept on computers. Even if he lost the receipts over the years, he can still retrieve them. All it takes (usually) is to contact the dealership or service garages at which he’s had the work done. Call me a cynic, but if he can’t produce the records, I would assume he hasn’t had the work performed.

That’s it for now. My thanks to Jonathan and Tony for writing in with their questions. For those of you who have emailed me asking when I’m planning to address your own questions, I promise to get to them. I have a large backlog, but we’re making progress. Be sure to join back next time when we tackle a few new car problems. Until then, drive safely.

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11 Aug

Q & A #31 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #31 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist, a regular column in which I try to diagnose readers’ car problems to help them get back on the road. If this is your first time reading, keep in mind that I can’t see under the hood of the cars. That means my diagnosis – and by extension, my troubleshooting – will be somewhat limited. Having said that, judging from the emails I’ve received, we hit the mark more times than not.

In the last installment, we helped Janice figure out why her Frontier was hesitating when she hit the gas pedal. We also helped Bernard with the cruise control in his Continental. This time, we’re going to address a question about synthetic motor oil from a reader named Tom. We’re also going to help Isaac with his PT’s steering problem.

Let’s get started.

Question: I have a question for you about synthetic oil blends. A friend told me that I should definitely be using them in my Chevrolet Blazer. It’s a 2002 with about 96,000 miles on it. He said synthetics are better for the engine because they offer more protection from friction. The mechanic who works at the garage near my house said it doesn’t really matter. The thing is, synthetic oil costs more than the brand I’m using. I don’t mind spending a little more money if that means my Blazer’s engine will last longer. Especially with nearly 100,000 miles on it. But, I don’t want to spend the money if there’s no difference. What do you think?

Answer: I appreciate your writing in, Tom. Both your friend and the mechanic are correct… sort of. Synthetic motor oil is cleaner with fewer contaminants. It also breaks down more slowly than conventional oils, which means you’ll need to replace it less frequently. So, the cost factor balances itself out. That said, if you haven’t been using it for your Blazer, I wouldn’t start. Synthetics are not suited for high-mileage vehicles.

Question: I drive a 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser with the mileage just over 82,350. It’s a beauty of a car, but my steering wheel is giving me a problem. It’s hard to turn at slow speeds and when I do turn it, I hear a loud creaking sound. If I press on the gas pedal, the steering wheel is easier to turn, but at slow speeds and while idling, it’s really difficult. The other day, I saw a few spots of greenish fluid on my driveway under the engine. Is that steering fluid? If so, what do you recommend I do?

Answer: Thanks for your email, Isaac. It definitely sounds like your Cruiser has a leak. The green fluid on your driveway is probably coolant. Here’s what I suggest: turn your car off, pop the hood, and find the power steering reservoir near the front end of your PT’s engine. Take the cap off and fill the reservoir. Then, crank the engine and take a look for any leaks. There are usually two hoses leading from the steering pump; both can develop leaks. If you find any, have them fixed.

That’s it for today’s installment. Thanks again to Tom and Isaac for sharing their questions. Next time, we’ll take a look at the catalytic converter in a reader’s Volkswagen Passat. We’ll also help another reader decide whether to buy a used Accord from an owner who doesn’t have all of the maintenance records. Be sure to come back for that. Until then, drive safely.

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