Q & A #27 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #27 With The Auto Specialist

If you’re a regular reader, thanks for rejoining us for this installment of the Auto Specialist. If you’re reading for the first time, welcome. In this recurring column, we take a close look at two or three car problems and help readers figure out the root source. There’s no way I can guarantee that my diagnosis is correct because I’m not actually inspecting the vehicle. That said, we usually get pretty close.

In today’s column, we’ll help Jonathan resolve his air conditioning troubles. We’ll also help Ben with a problem he’s having while trying to crank the engine in his Prelude. By the way, thanks to everyone who has written in with their car questions. I promise we’ll get to them soon. Let’s get started.

Question: I bought a 2007 Hyundai Sonata when it was new and the engine currently has a little under 22,000 miles on it. The problem is with my A/C. It’s blowing warm air. I took it to a local mechanic and the guy said my A/C isn’t working because of a leak. But, he couldn’t explain how a leak had developed in a relatively new car. Other than this, the car runs beautifully. I’ve never had a problem. But, I live in Texas and the heat is already killing me. Should I just have the mechanic fix the leak or is something else causing the air to be warm?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Jonathan. The problem with air conditioning leaks is that they can be caused by a number of things. For example, one of the hoses could have ruptured or the evaporator core might be leaking. It can also be a compressor or seal. Here’s what I’d do. Drive to the dealership and ask them to run a dye through the system. They’ll have the equipment to see the dye leaking from the affected area and can fix it quickly. The good news is that your Sonata is still under its warranty. So, you won’t have to pay for the repairs.

Question: I drive a 2000 Honda Prelude with the mileage at 117,500. It’s a great car… when it’s running. The thing is, I’ve been having trouble starting it for the past three weeks. When I turn the key, nothing happens. The lights in the cabin don’t come on, the power windows won’t work, and my radio is dead. My roommate has been jump-starting it for me and it’ll run fine for the rest of the day. But, by the next morning, it’s dead again. Does that ring any bells for you? Do you know why my car is not starting?

Answer: Thanks for writing, Ben. I’m guessing the problem is with your charging system. I suggest load testing your battery first since it’s the easiest step. If it load tests fine, check for a drain. You can do that by taking the negative cable off the post and attaching a 12-volt tester to the post and the detached cable. If the tester doesn’t light up, your battery is probably fine. In that case, check the amperage of your alternator. Hope that helps.

Thanks to both Jonathan and Ben for writing in and letting us help with their car problems. Next time, we’ll help a reader named Jesse figure out why his Ford truck is acting like a bronco (it’s jerking on the road). We’ll also take a look under the hood of Steven’s Chevy Lumina to resolve a persistent starter problem. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #18 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #18 With The Auto Specialist

With the economy putting a lot of people on notice about their jobs, more drivers than ever seem willing to keep their older cars on the road. Good decision. New vehicles are expensive. However, the other side of the coin is that auto parts which have suffered wear and tear will eventually malfunction. You’ll need to either have them repaired or replaced.

What we’ve been doing in this regular feature is focusing on readers’ car problems. So, if you’re having an issue with your vehicle and can’t figure it out, let me know about it. In today’s segment, we’ll try to help one reader solve his car’s starting problem. We’ll also take a look at another long-time reader’s brake issue. Let’s dig in.

Question: I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante with a little over 109,000 miles. I’ve been having a problem starting the car for about 6 months. The thing is, it doesn’t happen all of the time which makes it tough for my mechanic to figure out what’s wrong. Sometimes, I’ll turn the key and nothing will happen. And then, at other times, it fires right up.

I changed out the battery awhile back, but it didn’t make a difference. Actually, I had a feeling the battery wasn’t the issue because the radio and other stuff works fine even if my car doesn’t start. So, what the heck is happening?

Answer: That does sound frustrating. From what you’ve described, I’m going to suggest having your mechanic check the ignition switch. There are wires in there which can break and make it hard for the switch to read your key. It’s possible that it’s reading your key sporadically even though it’s broken. If that is the issue, your mechanic should be able to fix it pretty quickly.

Question: I’ve been enjoying your column since you started it and I’ve been learning a lot just by reading. Still afraid to do my own auto repairs, though. In any case, I have a 2000 Honda CR-V with odometer at 120,000. Last month, the anti-lock brake light lit up on my dash. I took it into the Honda dealer and they said repairing the system would cost nearly $1,500. I’m a teacher and that’s a lot of money to me.

Here’s the thing. My brakes actually work well. So, I don’t know why the ABS light is on. Can I just disconnect it?

Answer: I’m glad you’re enjoying the Auto Specialist column. Now, regarding the ABS light, it’s tough to know what is triggering it without performing a test. The anti-lock brake system in your vehicle is actually comprised of several parts and some are expensive. The $1,500 they quoted might be accurate.

Here’s what I’d do: first, go back to the Honda dealer and ask them which part – or parts – they want to replace. Then, take your vehicle to a local garage and have them run a test to get a second opinion. As for disconnecting your anti-lock brake system, I don’t recommend it. Let me know how it goes.

That’s it for now. Hopefully, by reading each installment of the Auto Specialist, you’re learning more about your vehicle and the parts under the hood. As I mentioned, I’ve been receiving a ton of reader mail about car problems. So, we’ll have a new batch of issues to dig out hands into next time. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #10 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Car Q and A

Q & A #10 With The Auto Specialist

In the last segment, we discussed a few things you can do to squeeze more gas mileage from your car (i.e. replace air and oil filters, etc.). We also helped a reader diagnose why his engine keeps overheating. Today, I’m going to address a reader’s question about why her vehicle backfires. We’ll also explore a reader’s transmission problem. Another gentleman wrote in to ask why his car keep sputtering before dying. It’s a full schedule, so let’s get started.

Question: My car has been backfiring lately and I can’t figure out why. It’s a red 2003 Mustang and it has just over 92,000 miles. I’m good about keeping the oil changed regularly and following my service manual. But, for the past week, whenever I accelerate, it backfires. Most of the time, it happens when I’m getting onto the freeway. Can you tell me what’s causing it?

Answer: I suspect it’s either the fuel pressure or the ignition system. Whenever you accelerate, your car’s fuel pressure needs to reach approximately 40 pounds. If that’s not happening, you may need to have a mechanic replace the fuel pump. On the other hand, if your spark plugs are worn, they can cause a misfire which leads to backfiring. Check the coils and plugs, or have your mechanic do so for you.

Question: I bought a 1999 Nissan Frontier. Its mileage is at 176,000. When I first start driving each day, it shifts fine. But, after about 20 minutes, it’s difficult. After about 35 minutes, I can barely shift! I hate stopping on surface streets because I know it’s going to be a pain to get moving again. Do I need a new clutch?

Answer: You’re not going to like my answer. From what you’ve described, it sounds like your transmission is having problems. There’s a remote possibility that it just needs more fluid. So, definitely try that first. Otherwise, prepare yourself for the chance that you’ll need to have the transmission replaced. A rebuilt will obviously cost less than a new unit. But, you can still expect to pay over $1,000 for the job (unit plus installation).

Question: I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Toronado with 227,000 miles on it. Awhile back, it started sputtering whenever I slowed down. It happened sporadically, so I didn’t think much about it. But, it happens a lot now. Making matters worse, it sputters and then dies. If I let the car rest for about 10 minutes, I can start it again, but it ends up sputtering and dying again. I’m thinking of getting rid of it. Is there anything I can do?

Answer: I rarely hear from folks who own this type of car. They’re great-looking vehicles, especially if you have the original parts. If I had to wager on the root cause of the sputtering, I’d say it was your catalytic converter. You didn’t mention whether you have replaced it in the past, but they can fail, especially in older vehicles. Have your mechanic test it. Replacing that part may solve your problem.

That’s a great batch of car problems to diagnose in this segment. Even though a lot of issues that happen under your vehicle’s hood seem mysterious, there is always a root cause. If you can identify it, you (or your mechanic) can fix it. As I’ve always said, the more you know about your car, the better prepared you’ll be when parts fail. In the next installment, we’ll have a new group of automotive issues to discuss.

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