Q & A #59 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. If you’re reading this column for the first time, I invite you to peruse the archives. We’ve managed to create an impressive compendium of automotive knowledge dealing with engines, transmissions, mufflers, alternators, and nearly every other car part or system. This is all based on helping readers troubleshoot and resolve their car problems. If you’re experiencing an issue with your vehicle and are getting the runaround from your dealership or mechanic, send in the details and I’ll try to help.

In today’s segment, we’re going to help Kyle figure out why his Galant seems to be losing power. We’re also going to address Linday’s question about a leak in her transmission. Lastly, we’ll take a look at Michael’s idea of dropping a new, bigger engine into his wife’s Durango. There’s lots to cover, so let’s jump right in.

Question: I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant. It has just under 125,000 miles on it and has always driven really well. Back in January, I was having trouble getting it started. It turns out, the fuel pump was bad. The engine wasn’t getting any gas. So, I replaced the pump with a used one and everything was working fine again.

Two weeks ago, I started having trouble accelerating on the freeway. The car felt sluggish whenever I hit the gas. The problem has gotten steadily worse and now, it’s even sluggish on surface streets. My mechanic thinks the oxygen sensor may have gone bad, but I’m not convinced since I replaced that about eighteen months ago. Any idea why I’m having trouble getting power?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Kyle. To recap, here’s what we know: your fuel pump went bad and you replaced it, which resolved the original lack of acceleration problem. Now, the problem is back and it’s not due to the oxygen sensor (I’m speculating here based on your assumption). If I had to guess, I’d say it’s the used fuel pump. If it’s used, it’s unlikely to be OEM-certified. My suggestion is to have it replaced again, but use an OEM unit this time.

Question: I’m driving a 2002 Toyota 4Runner with 122,000 miles on it. I was looking through your archives and awhile back you mentioned checking under the transmission for leaks. So, that’s what I did with my 4Runner. The bad news is, I can see reddish fluid on the ground, so I’m going to assume there’s a small leak. I’ve put more fluid in the reservoir like you suggested to avoid running low. I wanted to ask you, how expensive is it to fix transmission leaks?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Lindsay. The cost to fix a leak in your transmission depends on where the leak is located. If it’s coming from one of the outside seals, your mechanic should be able to fix it without lifting the tranny from your truck. If the leak is coming from the front seal, however, the transmission will need to be lifted out. That makes the job far more expensive. I can’t give you a cost estimate since this particular job can range over a wide span.

Question: My wife owns a 1999 Dodge Durango with nearly 150,000 on the engine. For some reason, she loves the thing and doesn’t want to get rid of it, even though it has a lot of miles on the engine. I suggested having the engine replaced, which she was open to doing. But she wants a V8 put in. There’s only a V6 in there right now. How would I go about doing this?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Michael. First, I recommend against the V8. Replacing a V6 with a V8 is a major job. It’s very complex and something that even a trained technician can easily get wrong. What’s more, even if you get the bigger engine in, it may not pass your state’s smog test. There are a lot of modifications to make. Missing one could cause major issues. I’d revisit this with your wife and suggest sticking with a replacement V6.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. I’d like to thank Kyle, Lindsay, and Michael again for sending their questions in and letting us help out. Be sure to come back next time when we have a new batch of interesting automotive problems to go through. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #58 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #58 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. From looking at our numbers, this column is receiving a healthy stream of new readers. For those of you who have recently started reading this regular feature, I’d like to encourage you to explore our archives when you get a chance. I’ve been diagnosing car problems for readers for the past several months. During that time, we’ve amassed an impressive library of automotive knowledge.

Today, we’re going to answer Gerri’s question about oxygen sensors and spark plugs. We’ll also help Tom with his Infiniti’s fuel injectors. Lastly, we’ll take a look at whether replacing the water pump in Jack’s Dodge Ram is necessary.

Let’s get started.

Question: My car is a 2001 Toyota Camry with almost 117,000 miles. I took it in for a basic oil change last week. The mechanic said my spark plugs were fouled and needed to be replaced. He also said I should have the oxygen sensor replaced since that was fouling up the plugs. Honestly, I don’t know much about cars. Does his advice sound right to you. Or, is he just trying to get me to agree to more repairs? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Gerri. Regarding whether your oxygen sensor can foul your spark plugs, yes. It can. The sensor’s job is to monitor the exhaust coming out of the combustion chambers. It sends that data back to the computer, so the computer can adjust the amount of fuel that enters the chambers. If the oxygen sensor fails, or sends bad data to the computer, it can set the stage for a rich air-fuel mixture. Over time, the rich mixture can produce deposits on the spark plugs. These deposits can foul the plugs.

Whether the oxygen sensor is actually fouling your plugs is the question. Fouled plugs can occur for many reasons. I recommend have a couple of mechanics run a diagnostic test to see whether the sensor is working properly.

Question: I’m driving a 2003 Infiniti G35 with 86,400 miles on it. I had some routine maintenance done a few days ago at the dealership. The technician on duty told me that my fuel injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced. This news isn’t surprising to me because I’ve been noticing a sporadic loss in power during acceleration. Even so, I wanted to ask you whether this sounds legitimate and whether I should run a cleaner through the injectors.

Answer: Thanks for your question, Tom. With the mileage on your vehicle, clogged fuel injectors are common. So, no surprise there. If you’re not already doing so, I suggest using a good-quality gas and swapping out the fuel filter every 30,000 miles. Brand name fuels already have cleaners in them, so there’s no need for an additional cleaner. If your injectors are already clogged, you’ll need to replace them.

Question: I have a 2004 Dodge Ram with the mileage at 73,000. My mechanic wants to change the timing belt in my truck and suggested that I replace the water pump, too. At the moment, the water pump is fine (though the timing belt is on its last legs). Given that, why is there a need to replace it? It seems like a waste of money to me.

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Jack. You’re mechanic is actually doing you a favor. In a lot of vehicles, the water pump is nearly impossible to reach without first removing the timing belt. If you were to have your mechanic replace the belt, but not the pump, he would need to remove the belt later when the pump eventually fails. In the long run, it’s less expensive to simply replace both at the same time, even if the water pump is still working fine.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to say thanks again to Gerri, Tom, and Jack for letting us help with their car problems. We’ll have another batch of questions ready in the near future. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #56 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #56 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me again for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. Since the last segment, the Toyota recall issue has taken an unexpected turn. A highly-publicized test of the automaker’s Prius showed that the car’s accelerator prevented the driver from slowing his vehicle. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) later reported that it could not duplicate the problem. For their part, Toyota claims the events could not possibly have transpired as reported by the driver. Meanwhile, the driver has hired a lawyer, but has claimed he has no intention of suing Toyota.

Very strange case, indeed. Let’s abandon the issue for now and dig into a new batch of questions from readers. Today, we’ll help Patrick with his Sonata’s heater, Leslie with her Camry’s master cylinder, and Chris with his Aurora’s “no start” problems.

Let’s get started.

Question: I’m driving a 1999 Hyundai Sonata with a little over 116,000 miles. Aside from a few parts that I needed to have replaced awhile back, my car hasn’t given me any problems. It drives really well. However, a couple of months ago, the heater stopped working. I can feel air coming from the vents, so the fan is working. But the air isn’t warm. I live in California and it doesn’t get that cold. But it would nice to have the heater working. Any ideas what might be causing the problem?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Patrick. The lack of warm air could be due to a few issues. Your car’s heater works based on the coolant in your cooling system. Most people don’t realize the warm air coming through their vents is produced by the heated coolant coming from the engine. If your coolant level is low, that might prevent the heater core from blowing warm air.

The issue might also be with the heater control valve. Usually, it remains open to allow coolant into the heater core. If the valve stays closed from some reason, the coolant will never reach the core. The result? No warm air. Another potential cause is the fan that blows the air from the heater core. If the fan fails, it cannot blow warm air into the cabin of your Sonata. First, check the coolant level. Then, have a mechanic check the control valve and fan.

Question: I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with about 82,000 miles. I was having my brake pads replaced this past weekend at the dealer, and the mechanic said I needed to have the master cylinder replaced. I told him that I’d get back to him on that. There’s no problem with my brakes as far as I can tell. Why does the mechanic want to replace the master cylinder? Is he just trying to pad his bill?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Leslie. Your master cylinder usually gives signs that it needs to be replaced. The most common sign is a slushy brake pedal. When you press down on the pedal, it will sink further than normal. You may even have to pump it in order to stop your vehicle.

The problem is, it’s difficult to tell whether this is due to simple air bubbles in the brake lines, an external leak, or worn pistons and bore. It’s possible that the dealer’s mechanic is just trying to pad his bill when recommending a replacement. But frankly, there are easier ways to do that. If I were in your shoes, I’d trust him and have it replaced.

Question: I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with the mileage at 106,400. My problem is very odd. My wife took the car into a local garage to have the oil changed. I do it every 3,000 miles to keep the engine running well. Anyway, after the job was done, my wife brought the car home. I tried to start it the next day, but couldn’t get it to crank over. So, I called a tow truck and had them take me over to the dealer. The technician on duty said the engine is damaged.

I have no idea how this happened. The car was running beautifully before my wife took it to the garage. What are your thoughts on this?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Chris. Realize that what I’m about to say is only a guess. Here’s what I think happened. The mechanic who did the oil change failed to put new oil in after removing the old oil. He probably started your car and the motor seized up. Panicking, he put new oil in and gave the keys to your wife without admitting his mistake. Your wife was able to drive the car home, but the damage was already done at that point.

If I were you, I’d ask the dealer’s technician to pop the oil filter and check inside. If the filter was replaced during the oil change, and events happened as I suspect, the filter will be empty. That might be enough to convince the garage to pay for a new engine. Sorry to hear about your trouble.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to thank Patrick, Leslie, and Chris for letting us help diagnose their car problems. Be sure to join us next time for a new batch of questions. Until then, drive safely.

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