Parts and Autos

Q & A #17 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome to another round of Q & A with the Auto Specialist. In this column, we continue to put your car problems under the microscope to figure out what’s wrong and how to fix it. The goal is not to be able to repair everything yourself. Rather, we want to build your knowledge about car parts and components that are integral to the smooth operation of your vehicle.

In the last segment, we looked at two issues. We narrowed one down to an air conditioning compressor that was failing and another down to cracked spark plugs. Today, we’ll help a reader understand her mechanic’s advice regarding her transmission. We’ll also try to solve another reader’s idling problem. There’s a lot to cover so let’s get started.

Question: I bought a 2003 Chrysler Sebring when it was new. I’ve got about 88,000 miles on it. I took it in to a local repair shop a few days ago just to make sure everything was in good condition. They told me that I needed to have my transmission flushed. I’ve never had that service done on my car before, so I didn’t know what to do. I left without having the service performed, but I wanted to ask whether it’s necessary. What do you think?

Answer: You don’t need to have your transmission flushed. This is one of those services that you don’t need, but it’s still promoted by a lot of repair garages and dealership technicians. Now, let me make a quick distinction. Flushing simply means hooking up your Sebring to a machine that pushes out the old transmission fluid. Again, it’s unnecessary. Regular servicing should include a drain of the torque converter, dropping the pan, putting in a new filter, and a fluid refill. That’s all you need.

Question: I have a Ford Mustang (2005 with 45,000 miles) and it has always driven fine. Recently, the battery died. It was my fault because I accidentally left the door ajar overnight (stupid, I know). I recharged the battery, but my car doesn’t idle right. It’s low. Does the car battery have something to do with it?

Answer: The recharge of the battery is causing the odd idling. The good news is that it’s not a serious problem. The computer needs to relearn the proper idling speed. That will happen naturally as you drive. In fact, you can encourage the computer to learn more quickly by driving more. Give it time and your engine will start idling like it did prior to your battery dying.

That’s all we have time for in this installment. Next time, we’ll have two new car problems to dig our hands into. We’ll take a look at a starting problem that one reader is having with his sedan. We’ll also help a reader deal with his car’s brake problem. If this is the first time you’re joining us, be sure to return for the next segment. Until next time, drive safely.

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Q & A #14 With The Auto Specialist

Automakers are building vehicles today that are more reliable than ever. They’re also more complex than they were a decade ago. That said, the economy has slipped which means more people are keeping their cars longer. No matter how durable the parts under your hood are, they will fail eventually.

My goal with this column is to help you diagnose car problems as they occur. You may not be able to rebuild your engine or replace your transmission, but you’ll have a head start on knowing what the issues are. In today’s segment, we’re going to help a reader understand why his car is failing his state’s smog test. We’ll also address the “slime” that a reader reports seeing on his radiator cap.

Question: I purchased a 2001 Daewoo Leganza (bought it new) and the engine has a little over 100,000 miles. I live in California, so I need to get my car smog tested. I took it in a couple of weeks ago to have it tested and it failed. I drove it to a local repair garage to have the problem sorted out. The guy at the shop wants to put a new engine in because he says it will fix everything. The problem is, it’s really expensive.

From the beginning, I’ve kept my car in great condition. I get tune-ups, I’ve changed the spark plugs, and I have the oil changed every 5,000 miles. Do I really need to pay for a new engine? Is that the only way I’ll pass the smog test?

Answer: It’s not clear to me whether you need a new engine. However, there are plenty of things you can check if you haven’t already done so. Look at the compression for your car’s cylinders. Also, have your mechanic check the oxygen sensor. Sometimes, replacing it will solve the problem. Finally, check the fault codes on your vehicle’s computer. They may provide hints regarding why you’re not passing the smog check.

Question: I own a 2003 Volkswagen Passat and the mileage is at 84,000. Last week, I had the oil changed. While it was in the shop, the auto technician showed me my radiator cap. It had this light brown slime on it. The guy at the shop said the inside of my Passat’s cooling system is probably like that (slimey). He told me to drive back to the dealer to have their mechanics run a test. I haven’t done it yet, but can you tell me what the slime is from? Does it mean I have to replace the cooling system?

Answer: I’d be willing to bet that the light brown “slime” you’re seeing is due to old coolant sitting in the system. You should change it every couple of years. The good news is that you can probably just flush out your radiator and put a new batch of coolant into it.

That’s the first “slime” problem I’ve addressed. But, both questions make great additions to this regular column. If you’ve been reading since the beginning, you’ll know that we’ve already covered a variety of car parts and issues involving different components. Some of you have let me know that the information is extremely helpful. Next time, we’ll have a new crop of car mysteries to solve. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #9 With The Auto Specialist

As automakers incorporate more advanced technologies and systems into their cars, trucks, and SUVs, diagnosing problems under the hood becomes more difficult. In the old days, you could lift your vehicle’s hood, identify the problem, and fix it yourself. Today, even car aficionados are often left scratching their heads.

Our goal with this column is to continue building a foundation of car-related knowledge. Over time, you’ll learn to diagnose certain problems without the help of your mechanic. You may even be able to troubleshoot and replace a few parts yourself. In this segment, we’ll address a reader’s question regarding how to get better gas mileage. We’ll also help a gentleman figure out why his car’s engine keeps overheating.

Question: I have a 2005 Ford Expedition with 72,000 miles. My round trip commute to the office is just under 100 miles and I’m spending over $200 each month on gas. Is there anything I can do to my Expedition to get better mileage? Are there inexpensive parts I can replace or upgrade?

Answer: When fuel prices hovered over $4 per gallon last year, I imagine you were spending a lot more than $200 per month to feed your Expedition. That said, there are a number of things you can do which will make your vehicle more fuel efficient. First, make sure the pressure in your tires matches the manufacturer’s recommended settings. Second, consider replacing your air and oil filter. When debris collects in both, it can hamper your engine’s performance. Third, if your engine is misfiring or seems sluggish, have an auto technician fix the problem.

One last thing: large vehicles (for example, Expeditions) guzzle gas if you accelerate quickly from a full stop. Take your time and accelerate slowly. You’ll improve your gas mileage.

Question: A few years ago, I bought a used 2003 Mitsubishi Galant. It’s a smooth drive and hasn’t given me any problems until recently. Now, every time I drive it for more than a few minutes, the engine overheats. I know I should probably take it into the shop, but I have a feeling it’s going to cost a bundle. Any ideas about what’s causing it to overheat?

Answer: Without inspecting your car personally, I can only guess at the root cause. But, we can still narrow it down. First, check the level of coolant in your radiator. You should be able to pop the cap off (don’t do it while your engine is hot!) and see the fluid inside. If it’s low, that may be the problem. Put more coolant in and watch the level over the next week. Second, the fan that sits next to your radiator to increase airflow may not be working properly. You may need a mechanic to check this for you.

The bottom line is that you need to take your Galant to a mechanic. Even if the problem is just a coolant deficiency, there may be a leak. If you don’t fix it, you’ll be adding more coolant perpetually which is expensive and inconvenient. If there’s a bigger problem with your engine, neglecting it can lead to severe damage. And that’s even more expensive.

In the next installment, we’ll help a reader figure out why her car is backfiring. We’ll also explore a problem that a driver is having with his 4 X 4′s transmission. If we have time, we’ll take a look at a question regarding a car’s sputtering problem. Until then, drive safely.

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