Q & A #61 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #61 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. Recently, I was reviewing some of the automotive industry’s latest sales numbers. It looks like the Big 3 (i.e. Ford, GM, and Chrysler) are making enormous strides to regain market share. In May 2010, all three automakers experienced double-digit sales growth over May 2009. It’s a little early to tell whether this is a long-term sales trend or a short-term blip. One thing is clear, though: in light of Toyota’s recent recall-related woes, the Big 3 are moving forward aggressively to attract customers.

In today’s segment, we’re going to take a look at a fuel pump problem in Irv’s GMC Sierra. We’re also going to help Jennifer with a question on oil changes. Lastly, we’ll help Andy figure out whether he should follow his mechanic’s advice and get a new engine for his Ford Escape. That’s a full agenda, so let’s jump right in.

Question: I’m driving a 2002 GMC Sierra with 106,000 miles. It has been fine ever since I bought it used in 2004. A real nice truck. Lately, however, I’ve been having a problem with my fuel injectors. They’re not getting enough fuel for the engine. I’ve cleaned the fuel injection system and removed the injectors to check them for sediment. They’re clean.

Usually, I can start the truck just fine, but it stalls out within fifteen or twenty minutes. It doesn’t happen all the time, but it happens enough that it has become very frustrating. Any idea why my fuel injectors aren’t working?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Irv. From what you’ve described, I’m thinking the injectors are working fine. The problem may be with the fuel pump. It might not be producing a sufficient amount of pressure within the lines. That would explain why fuel is not getting to your engine despite the injectors being clean. I suggest having the pump replaced.

Question: I have a 2005 Infiniti M45. The mechanics at the dealership keep recommending that I have my oil changed every 3,000 miles. They tell me that waiting could damage the engine. To be honest, it’s not the cost of the service that prevents me from having the oil changed more often than I currently do. It’s the inconvenience of driving to the dealership and waiting for them to finish. So, do I need to have the oil changed every 3,000 miles to protect my engine?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Jennifer. Given the age of your engine, I’d say it’s completely unnecessary. You didn’t mention how often you are having the oil changed currently. But changing it every 3,000 miles is overkill unless your engine is old with a lot of miles on it. Follow your owner’s manual. For a 2005 Infiniti, the manual probably recommends doing it every 7,500 miles.

Question: I own a 2004 Ford Escape with a little over 72,000 miles. A couple weeks ago, the mechanic at a local garage I go to told me that I need to replace the engine. I was under the impression that car engines were built to last for over 100,000 miles. This seems really early. I could understand if I treated my engine poorly, but I change the oil every 4,000 miles and drive conservatively. I can’t imagine that I’ve damaged the engine. What do you think? Is it possible that I actually need a new engine?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Andy. First, you’re right. Engines are supposed to last much longer than 72,000 miles. That said, given the details you’ve provided, it’s difficult to know whether there is an underlying problem in the assembly. Did your mechanic mention detonation, a persistent compression problem, or valve and piston damage? There are a hundred reasons he may have suggested a replacement, and it’s impossible for me to know whether his reason is legitimate. Sorry I couldn’t help more.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. I’d like to thank Irv, Jennifer, and Andy for sending in their questions and allowing us to take a look. Make sure you come back next time when I’ll have a new batch of interesting automotive challenges to help diagnose. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #60 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #60 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. Earlier today, I was reading about Toyota’s plans for their hydrogen-powered vehicles. They’ve been in the works for years, and are planned for release in 2015. Perhaps due to better technology, lower production costs, or a simple bid to earn goodwill, Toyota said they’re slashing the price by a stunning 90% (they’re dropping the planned price to $50,000). I’m looking forward to seeing what they have in store.

Today, we’re going to help Joe with his question on the cost of valve jobs for his Infiniti. We’ll also take a look at Stephanie’s “check engine” light problem. We’ll end the round by helping Carlos figure out why his Accord is running rough.

Lots to cover, so let’s get started.

Question: I have a 1998 Infiniti I30 with the original engine. It has 150,000 miles on it. My mechanic said he wants to do a valve job on the engine because of a problem with the compression. The car runs okay, but it seems to miss or hesitate a lot. Anyway, my mechanic quoted me $700 for the job. That sounds expensive. Any idea if that’s accurate?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Joe. First, 150,000 miles and you’ve never had a problem with your engine? I’m impressed. Engines can last a long time, but yours seems to be a true workhorse. Regarding the price of a valve job, it’s very hard to say without seeing the valves, cylinder head, and other parts.

A simple job might cost as little as a few hundred dollars. On the other hand, structural damage becomes more expensive. If there are cracks, or the head needs to be straightened, or the springs, guides, and seats need to be replaced, you’re looking at over $1,000 – at least. You didn’t mention if your mechanic was going to refurbish all the valves or just a few. That will, of course, affect the price. Sorry that I’m unable to give you a straightforward answer.

Bottom line: $700 might be perfect or it might be way off. Impossible to tell.

Question: I’m driving a 2005 Mitsubishi Galant with 62,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago, the light that says “check engine” showed up on my dashboard. I don’t know much about cars. What does that light mean and should I take my car to a mechanic? Thanks.

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Stephanie. The “Check Engine” light basically means your car’s computer detected something wrong in the engine or related parts. When this occurs, the computer will usually generate and store a fault code. This code describes the problem, but you need a special tool in order to pull it off the computer. Your mechanic has such a tool.

There’s no way to tell what caused the light to come on until the fault code is pulled. Some problems are relatively harmless. Others are serious. Take your Galant to a mechanic and have him pull the code. If your vehicle is still under warranty, you may want to take it to the dealer.

Question: I own a 2001 Honda Accord with about 115,000 miles on the engine. It’s been riding really rough for the past few weeks. And it’s gotten worse. Occasionally, it will stall if I’m waiting at a stoplight. At first, I thought it was the spark plugs, so I replaced them. No luck. The car is still riding rough and stalling out every once in awhile. Could you give me some advice regarding what to check next?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Carlos. Engines are tricky because problems can be caused by so many different things. That being said, I’d be willing to wager the stalling and rough idle is due to a bad fuel pump. I have a feeling that if you replace the pump (be sure to use an OEM-quality replacement), your rough idle will disappear.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to thank Joe, Stephanie, and Carlos for letting us help them out with their questions. Next time, we’ll have a new round of three automotive problems to address. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #58 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #58 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. From looking at our numbers, this column is receiving a healthy stream of new readers. For those of you who have recently started reading this regular feature, I’d like to encourage you to explore our archives when you get a chance. I’ve been diagnosing car problems for readers for the past several months. During that time, we’ve amassed an impressive library of automotive knowledge.

Today, we’re going to answer Gerri’s question about oxygen sensors and spark plugs. We’ll also help Tom with his Infiniti’s fuel injectors. Lastly, we’ll take a look at whether replacing the water pump in Jack’s Dodge Ram is necessary.

Let’s get started.

Question: My car is a 2001 Toyota Camry with almost 117,000 miles. I took it in for a basic oil change last week. The mechanic said my spark plugs were fouled and needed to be replaced. He also said I should have the oxygen sensor replaced since that was fouling up the plugs. Honestly, I don’t know much about cars. Does his advice sound right to you. Or, is he just trying to get me to agree to more repairs? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Gerri. Regarding whether your oxygen sensor can foul your spark plugs, yes. It can. The sensor’s job is to monitor the exhaust coming out of the combustion chambers. It sends that data back to the computer, so the computer can adjust the amount of fuel that enters the chambers. If the oxygen sensor fails, or sends bad data to the computer, it can set the stage for a rich air-fuel mixture. Over time, the rich mixture can produce deposits on the spark plugs. These deposits can foul the plugs.

Whether the oxygen sensor is actually fouling your plugs is the question. Fouled plugs can occur for many reasons. I recommend have a couple of mechanics run a diagnostic test to see whether the sensor is working properly.

Question: I’m driving a 2003 Infiniti G35 with 86,400 miles on it. I had some routine maintenance done a few days ago at the dealership. The technician on duty told me that my fuel injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced. This news isn’t surprising to me because I’ve been noticing a sporadic loss in power during acceleration. Even so, I wanted to ask you whether this sounds legitimate and whether I should run a cleaner through the injectors.

Answer: Thanks for your question, Tom. With the mileage on your vehicle, clogged fuel injectors are common. So, no surprise there. If you’re not already doing so, I suggest using a good-quality gas and swapping out the fuel filter every 30,000 miles. Brand name fuels already have cleaners in them, so there’s no need for an additional cleaner. If your injectors are already clogged, you’ll need to replace them.

Question: I have a 2004 Dodge Ram with the mileage at 73,000. My mechanic wants to change the timing belt in my truck and suggested that I replace the water pump, too. At the moment, the water pump is fine (though the timing belt is on its last legs). Given that, why is there a need to replace it? It seems like a waste of money to me.

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Jack. You’re mechanic is actually doing you a favor. In a lot of vehicles, the water pump is nearly impossible to reach without first removing the timing belt. If you were to have your mechanic replace the belt, but not the pump, he would need to remove the belt later when the pump eventually fails. In the long run, it’s less expensive to simply replace both at the same time, even if the water pump is still working fine.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to say thanks again to Gerri, Tom, and Jack for letting us help with their car problems. We’ll have another batch of questions ready in the near future. Until then, drive safely.

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