Q & A #58 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #58 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. From looking at our numbers, this column is receiving a healthy stream of new readers. For those of you who have recently started reading this regular feature, I’d like to encourage you to explore our archives when you get a chance. I’ve been diagnosing car problems for readers for the past several months. During that time, we’ve amassed an impressive library of automotive knowledge.

Today, we’re going to answer Gerri’s question about oxygen sensors and spark plugs. We’ll also help Tom with his Infiniti’s fuel injectors. Lastly, we’ll take a look at whether replacing the water pump in Jack’s Dodge Ram is necessary.

Let’s get started.

Question: My car is a 2001 Toyota Camry with almost 117,000 miles. I took it in for a basic oil change last week. The mechanic said my spark plugs were fouled and needed to be replaced. He also said I should have the oxygen sensor replaced since that was fouling up the plugs. Honestly, I don’t know much about cars. Does his advice sound right to you. Or, is he just trying to get me to agree to more repairs? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Gerri. Regarding whether your oxygen sensor can foul your spark plugs, yes. It can. The sensor’s job is to monitor the exhaust coming out of the combustion chambers. It sends that data back to the computer, so the computer can adjust the amount of fuel that enters the chambers. If the oxygen sensor fails, or sends bad data to the computer, it can set the stage for a rich air-fuel mixture. Over time, the rich mixture can produce deposits on the spark plugs. These deposits can foul the plugs.

Whether the oxygen sensor is actually fouling your plugs is the question. Fouled plugs can occur for many reasons. I recommend have a couple of mechanics run a diagnostic test to see whether the sensor is working properly.

Question: I’m driving a 2003 Infiniti G35 with 86,400 miles on it. I had some routine maintenance done a few days ago at the dealership. The technician on duty told me that my fuel injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced. This news isn’t surprising to me because I’ve been noticing a sporadic loss in power during acceleration. Even so, I wanted to ask you whether this sounds legitimate and whether I should run a cleaner through the injectors.

Answer: Thanks for your question, Tom. With the mileage on your vehicle, clogged fuel injectors are common. So, no surprise there. If you’re not already doing so, I suggest using a good-quality gas and swapping out the fuel filter every 30,000 miles. Brand name fuels already have cleaners in them, so there’s no need for an additional cleaner. If your injectors are already clogged, you’ll need to replace them.

Question: I have a 2004 Dodge Ram with the mileage at 73,000. My mechanic wants to change the timing belt in my truck and suggested that I replace the water pump, too. At the moment, the water pump is fine (though the timing belt is on its last legs). Given that, why is there a need to replace it? It seems like a waste of money to me.

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Jack. You’re mechanic is actually doing you a favor. In a lot of vehicles, the water pump is nearly impossible to reach without first removing the timing belt. If you were to have your mechanic replace the belt, but not the pump, he would need to remove the belt later when the pump eventually fails. In the long run, it’s less expensive to simply replace both at the same time, even if the water pump is still working fine.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to say thanks again to Gerri, Tom, and Jack for letting us help with their car problems. We’ll have another batch of questions ready in the near future. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #57 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #57 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome back to the Auto Specialist. The most recent chapter in the Toyota recall mess has ended on a positive note for the automaker. Confronted by a tidal wave of criticism for their accelerator issues, Toyota extended some of the most aggressive buyer incentives in the industry.

The numbers are in for March 2010 and it looks as if the incentives worked. There was an enormous sales surge in new vehicles, helping Toyota finish second for the month behind General Motors. Not bad for an automaker many thought would implode under the pressure. I expect Toyota to reclaim their position at the top of the industry within a few years.

In today’s installment, we’re going to help a reader named Terry figure out why his Grand AM’s engine keeps missing. We’ll also help David with his Escape’s cranking issue, and answer Lynn’s question about blue exhaust smoke. There’s a lot on the agenda, so let’s jump in.

Question: I’m driving a 2001 Pontiac Grand AM with nearly 130,000 miles. The engine keeps missing in the top gears whenever I put it under load (for example, climbing up a hill). I’ve already replaced the filters, distributor cap, and spark plugs, but nothing seems to fix the problem. I’m getting a little frustrated. Any ideas what might be causing the miss?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Terry. Given that you’re still experiencing a miss after replacing those parts, I’m willing to bet you have a compression leak in one of the cylinders. I would run a leak down test to measure any loss in pressure. If you find a high rate of loss, the problem is likely due to a blown head gasket or bad valves.

Question: I have a 2003 Ford Escape. There’s about 93,000 miles on the odometer. For the past year, I’ve been dealing with a cranking problem that has gotten consistently worse. When I turn the key, the engine won’t turn over. But it happens sporadically – maybe only once every ten or twelve starts. I can sometimes get it to crank if I try it over and over, but it seems like luck more than anything. I’m not sure what to do other than take my car to a repair shop. Have you ever dealt with this type of problem before?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, David. I’ve seen plenty of cranking issues in my time and they happen for a lot of different reasons. This is one of those automotive problems that is very difficult to diagnose without having my hands on your car.

That said, I have a few suggestions for you. Clean the terminals and cables connecting your battery. Then, load test it. If it’s putting out a sufficient charge, check the starter for proper voltage. Once you’re sure those parts are working fine, test the ignition switch and starter solenoid. The problem likely involves one of those components. If you still have trouble finding the culprit, you’ll need to have a mechanic take a closer look.

Question: I own a 1997 Honda Accord with 164,000 miles on it. My car has been blowing blue smoke out of the exhaust. Frankly, it’s a little embarrassing. I’ve never seen blue smoke before. What does it mean? Should I be concerned about my engine?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Lynn. The smoke you’re seeing is caused by burning oil. And yes, it’s a problem with your engine. There are several issues that might be causing it, including bad valve stems and failing piston rings. The bad news is that you may need to have your engine replaced or remanufactured. With 164,000 miles on it, you probably suspected this was a possibility.

That’s it for this installment of the Auto Specialist. I’d like to thank Terry, David, and Lynn for sending in their questions and letting us help diagnose their automotive problems. Next time, we’ll have a new batch of car-related questions to address. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #56 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #56 With The Auto Specialist

Thanks for joining me again for the latest installment of the Auto Specialist. Since the last segment, the Toyota recall issue has taken an unexpected turn. A highly-publicized test of the automaker’s Prius showed that the car’s accelerator prevented the driver from slowing his vehicle. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) later reported that it could not duplicate the problem. For their part, Toyota claims the events could not possibly have transpired as reported by the driver. Meanwhile, the driver has hired a lawyer, but has claimed he has no intention of suing Toyota.

Very strange case, indeed. Let’s abandon the issue for now and dig into a new batch of questions from readers. Today, we’ll help Patrick with his Sonata’s heater, Leslie with her Camry’s master cylinder, and Chris with his Aurora’s “no start” problems.

Let’s get started.

Question: I’m driving a 1999 Hyundai Sonata with a little over 116,000 miles. Aside from a few parts that I needed to have replaced awhile back, my car hasn’t given me any problems. It drives really well. However, a couple of months ago, the heater stopped working. I can feel air coming from the vents, so the fan is working. But the air isn’t warm. I live in California and it doesn’t get that cold. But it would nice to have the heater working. Any ideas what might be causing the problem?

Answer: Thanks for writing in, Patrick. The lack of warm air could be due to a few issues. Your car’s heater works based on the coolant in your cooling system. Most people don’t realize the warm air coming through their vents is produced by the heated coolant coming from the engine. If your coolant level is low, that might prevent the heater core from blowing warm air.

The issue might also be with the heater control valve. Usually, it remains open to allow coolant into the heater core. If the valve stays closed from some reason, the coolant will never reach the core. The result? No warm air. Another potential cause is the fan that blows the air from the heater core. If the fan fails, it cannot blow warm air into the cabin of your Sonata. First, check the coolant level. Then, have a mechanic check the control valve and fan.

Question: I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with about 82,000 miles. I was having my brake pads replaced this past weekend at the dealer, and the mechanic said I needed to have the master cylinder replaced. I told him that I’d get back to him on that. There’s no problem with my brakes as far as I can tell. Why does the mechanic want to replace the master cylinder? Is he just trying to pad his bill?

Answer: Thanks for your question, Leslie. Your master cylinder usually gives signs that it needs to be replaced. The most common sign is a slushy brake pedal. When you press down on the pedal, it will sink further than normal. You may even have to pump it in order to stop your vehicle.

The problem is, it’s difficult to tell whether this is due to simple air bubbles in the brake lines, an external leak, or worn pistons and bore. It’s possible that the dealer’s mechanic is just trying to pad his bill when recommending a replacement. But frankly, there are easier ways to do that. If I were in your shoes, I’d trust him and have it replaced.

Question: I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora with the mileage at 106,400. My problem is very odd. My wife took the car into a local garage to have the oil changed. I do it every 3,000 miles to keep the engine running well. Anyway, after the job was done, my wife brought the car home. I tried to start it the next day, but couldn’t get it to crank over. So, I called a tow truck and had them take me over to the dealer. The technician on duty said the engine is damaged.

I have no idea how this happened. The car was running beautifully before my wife took it to the garage. What are your thoughts on this?

Answer: Thanks for sending in your question, Chris. Realize that what I’m about to say is only a guess. Here’s what I think happened. The mechanic who did the oil change failed to put new oil in after removing the old oil. He probably started your car and the motor seized up. Panicking, he put new oil in and gave the keys to your wife without admitting his mistake. Your wife was able to drive the car home, but the damage was already done at that point.

If I were you, I’d ask the dealer’s technician to pop the oil filter and check inside. If the filter was replaced during the oil change, and events happened as I suspect, the filter will be empty. That might be enough to convince the garage to pay for a new engine. Sorry to hear about your trouble.

That’s it for today’s installment. I’d like to thank Patrick, Leslie, and Chris for letting us help diagnose their car problems. Be sure to join us next time for a new batch of questions. Until then, drive safely.

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