Q & A #18 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #18 With The Auto Specialist

With the economy putting a lot of people on notice about their jobs, more drivers than ever seem willing to keep their older cars on the road. Good decision. New vehicles are expensive. However, the other side of the coin is that auto parts which have suffered wear and tear will eventually malfunction. You’ll need to either have them repaired or replaced.

What we’ve been doing in this regular feature is focusing on readers’ car problems. So, if you’re having an issue with your vehicle and can’t figure it out, let me know about it. In today’s segment, we’ll try to help one reader solve his car’s starting problem. We’ll also take a look at another long-time reader’s brake issue. Let’s dig in.

Question: I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante with a little over 109,000 miles. I’ve been having a problem starting the car for about 6 months. The thing is, it doesn’t happen all of the time which makes it tough for my mechanic to figure out what’s wrong. Sometimes, I’ll turn the key and nothing will happen. And then, at other times, it fires right up.

I changed out the battery awhile back, but it didn’t make a difference. Actually, I had a feeling the battery wasn’t the issue because the radio and other stuff works fine even if my car doesn’t start. So, what the heck is happening?

Answer: That does sound frustrating. From what you’ve described, I’m going to suggest having your mechanic check the ignition switch. There are wires in there which can break and make it hard for the switch to read your key. It’s possible that it’s reading your key sporadically even though it’s broken. If that is the issue, your mechanic should be able to fix it pretty quickly.

Question: I’ve been enjoying your column since you started it and I’ve been learning a lot just by reading. Still afraid to do my own auto repairs, though. In any case, I have a 2000 Honda CR-V with odometer at 120,000. Last month, the anti-lock brake light lit up on my dash. I took it into the Honda dealer and they said repairing the system would cost nearly $1,500. I’m a teacher and that’s a lot of money to me.

Here’s the thing. My brakes actually work well. So, I don’t know why the ABS light is on. Can I just disconnect it?

Answer: I’m glad you’re enjoying the Auto Specialist column. Now, regarding the ABS light, it’s tough to know what is triggering it without performing a test. The anti-lock brake system in your vehicle is actually comprised of several parts and some are expensive. The $1,500 they quoted might be accurate.

Here’s what I’d do: first, go back to the Honda dealer and ask them which part – or parts – they want to replace. Then, take your vehicle to a local garage and have them run a test to get a second opinion. As for disconnecting your anti-lock brake system, I don’t recommend it. Let me know how it goes.

That’s it for now. Hopefully, by reading each installment of the Auto Specialist, you’re learning more about your vehicle and the parts under the hood. As I mentioned, I’ve been receiving a ton of reader mail about car problems. So, we’ll have a new batch of issues to dig out hands into next time. Until then, drive safely.

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Q & A #17 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #17 With The Auto Specialist

Welcome to another round of Q & A with the Auto Specialist. In this column, we continue to put your car problems under the microscope to figure out what’s wrong and how to fix it. The goal is not to be able to repair everything yourself. Rather, we want to build your knowledge about car parts and components that are integral to the smooth operation of your vehicle.

In the last segment, we looked at two issues. We narrowed one down to an air conditioning compressor that was failing and another down to cracked spark plugs. Today, we’ll help a reader understand her mechanic’s advice regarding her transmission. We’ll also try to solve another reader’s idling problem. There’s a lot to cover so let’s get started.

Question: I bought a 2003 Chrysler Sebring when it was new. I’ve got about 88,000 miles on it. I took it in to a local repair shop a few days ago just to make sure everything was in good condition. They told me that I needed to have my transmission flushed. I’ve never had that service done on my car before, so I didn’t know what to do. I left without having the service performed, but I wanted to ask whether it’s necessary. What do you think?

Answer: You don’t need to have your transmission flushed. This is one of those services that you don’t need, but it’s still promoted by a lot of repair garages and dealership technicians. Now, let me make a quick distinction. Flushing simply means hooking up your Sebring to a machine that pushes out the old transmission fluid. Again, it’s unnecessary. Regular servicing should include a drain of the torque converter, dropping the pan, putting in a new filter, and a fluid refill. That’s all you need.

Question: I have a Ford Mustang (2005 with 45,000 miles) and it has always driven fine. Recently, the battery died. It was my fault because I accidentally left the door ajar overnight (stupid, I know). I recharged the battery, but my car doesn’t idle right. It’s low. Does the car battery have something to do with it?

Answer: The recharge of the battery is causing the odd idling. The good news is that it’s not a serious problem. The computer needs to relearn the proper idling speed. That will happen naturally as you drive. In fact, you can encourage the computer to learn more quickly by driving more. Give it time and your engine will start idling like it did prior to your battery dying.

That’s all we have time for in this installment. Next time, we’ll have two new car problems to dig our hands into. We’ll take a look at a starting problem that one reader is having with his sedan. We’ll also help a reader deal with his car’s brake problem. If this is the first time you’re joining us, be sure to return for the next segment. Until next time, drive safely.

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Q & A #14 With The Auto Specialist

Author: Car Parts Guy  |  Category: Autos and Cars, Car Q and A

Q & A #14 With The Auto Specialist

Automakers are building vehicles today that are more reliable than ever. They’re also more complex than they were a decade ago. That said, the economy has slipped which means more people are keeping their cars longer. No matter how durable the parts under your hood are, they will fail eventually.

My goal with this column is to help you diagnose car problems as they occur. You may not be able to rebuild your engine or replace your transmission, but you’ll have a head start on knowing what the issues are. In today’s segment, we’re going to help a reader understand why his car is failing his state’s smog test. We’ll also address the “slime” that a reader reports seeing on his radiator cap.

Question: I purchased a 2001 Daewoo Leganza (bought it new) and the engine has a little over 100,000 miles. I live in California, so I need to get my car smog tested. I took it in a couple of weeks ago to have it tested and it failed. I drove it to a local repair garage to have the problem sorted out. The guy at the shop wants to put a new engine in because he says it will fix everything. The problem is, it’s really expensive.

From the beginning, I’ve kept my car in great condition. I get tune-ups, I’ve changed the spark plugs, and I have the oil changed every 5,000 miles. Do I really need to pay for a new engine? Is that the only way I’ll pass the smog test?

Answer: It’s not clear to me whether you need a new engine. However, there are plenty of things you can check if you haven’t already done so. Look at the compression for your car’s cylinders. Also, have your mechanic check the oxygen sensor. Sometimes, replacing it will solve the problem. Finally, check the fault codes on your vehicle’s computer. They may provide hints regarding why you’re not passing the smog check.

Question: I own a 2003 Volkswagen Passat and the mileage is at 84,000. Last week, I had the oil changed. While it was in the shop, the auto technician showed me my radiator cap. It had this light brown slime on it. The guy at the shop said the inside of my Passat’s cooling system is probably like that (slimey). He told me to drive back to the dealer to have their mechanics run a test. I haven’t done it yet, but can you tell me what the slime is from? Does it mean I have to replace the cooling system?

Answer: I’d be willing to bet that the light brown “slime” you’re seeing is due to old coolant sitting in the system. You should change it every couple of years. The good news is that you can probably just flush out your radiator and put a new batch of coolant into it.

That’s the first “slime” problem I’ve addressed. But, both questions make great additions to this regular column. If you’ve been reading since the beginning, you’ll know that we’ve already covered a variety of car parts and issues involving different components. Some of you have let me know that the information is extremely helpful. Next time, we’ll have a new crop of car mysteries to solve. Until then, drive safely.

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